How to best visit Mendoza and San Rafael wineries

Mendoza is one of the greatest wine regions of the world. With more than 1,500 wineries spread out through the three main wine regions – Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco and Maipu – wide open spaces with nothing but vines, mountain grandeur and blue skies, and some of the best winery architecture in the world, it is a spot you truly don’t want to miss. How to visit them independently? How to understand and taste the process without falling into the expensive touristic trap? Let’s find out!

First thing you shall know is that with 1,500 wineries you have plenty to choose from. Actually, there’s too much on your plate. How to make a selection?
Truth is, no one can tell you which approach is better for you.

Different ways to explore Mendoza Wineries:

Lujan de Cuyo
  1. Take an organised tour: they are expensive, you’ll have a touristic and crowded experience, but two good facts that must be said: you’ll just have to relax and don’t worry about a thing, and second, most tours change wineries quite often, so you won’t go always to the same ones; of course some big names like Bodega Lopez are likely to be always on the list, but the smaller ones may only accept 1-2 tours a week so you may find some good experience with an organised tour as well.
  2. Rent a bicycle: this is one of the most popular choices. There are many shops in Maipu area renting them, and you can get to Maipu with a cheap bus ride from the center. However, do not expect to be romanticly bicicling through vineyards… Maipu is where there are processing plants but it takes MANY chilometers to reach to vineyards area. Most companies only have a small sample of vineyard attached to it and destinated to tourism, while the extensive fields are well out of the urban area and not easily to be reached by bike.
  3. Hitchhike: considering that Maipu area is mostly urban area, I would not consider hitchhiking a great option. Instead, it may be a good option for Valle de Uco, San Rafael Area, Lujan de Cuyo.
  4. Rent a car: I know, driving and drinking, not a great idea, but if you take your time and are aware that in Argentina the alcohol limit is ZERO while driving, you can plan accordingly. This was our best option in terms of flexibility and freedom.
    We could come and go as we pleased, which was priceless in our opinion.
Mendoza Wineries Tour

Things you shall know before starting your visit to Mendoza Wineries:

  1. Lunches in wineries are a great way to explore the local cuisine while matching it with local wines; expect to pay 800-2000 pesos for a 3-courses meal and dessert with 3-4 different wines, and be aware that you shall book the experience at least 1-2 days in advance; the top restaurants on TripAdvisor get booked out at least a week before.
    Private tours usually include lunch in one of those realities.
  2. Apart from lunch, many wineries will allow walk-in tours: while the bigger ones have tours leaving every hour (Spanish) and 2-3 tours a day in English, the smaller ones may just organize a 30-45 minutes tour free of charge, sometimes including tastings, for you and only you.
    This was quite normal in the whole Lujan de Cuyo area in particular, with San Huberto being one of the highlights of our trip.
  3. Visits are all year around but best time to explore the process is obviously harvesting season, which happens between the second week of February and mid-March, depending on the year and on the wine variety.
  4. Be aware of “almuerzo” time break: tours may be suspended between 1pm and 4pm for lunch break, so consider the most common times for tours. Which means you’ll likely not visit more than 3 wineries a day.
    Shops close between 1pm and 6pm, making it the larger break we ever encountered in South America (but remain open then until 9pm)
  5. There isn’t only wine in the region: also olive oil is produced, and many producers open their doors to the public to admire the extraction and facilities. Pas-rai oil is conveniently located in the Maipu area and offers free tours plus tastings of their oils and sauces with bruschetta and bread. Despite it being crowded and a touristic experience with many bus tours, we loved their attention to customer service: when we said my partner couldn’t do the tasting because of the gluten, they provided him a plate with rice bread and their products so he wasn’t cut off from the experience!
  6. Mendoza has different wine regions: Valle de Uco, Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu, and a little bit further, San Rafael, San Juan, all the Ruta 40 driving South. There is so much to see that I would recommend to allow a couple of days for Mendoza surroundings, and then reserve at least one day for San Rafael or San Juan or Valle de Uco.
    You can’t definetely fit different areas in a single day, so don’t try.
  7. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo are the most common wine qualities here; you can visit the region tasting grape bunches here and there, learning the history of the wineries – of which many of Italian origin – and the methods of cultivation, procession, bottling and aging. Grape prices also drop down during harvest season, making it a delicious and healthy snack between your visits.
Mendoza Wineries Tour

What distilleries are worth a visit in Mendoza?

Bodega Lopez: with 15 million liters a year as production, only 5% of it goes for exportation. Incredible the amount of wine Argentinians can consume, right…? Despite it being one of the biggest names (and facilities) in the market, we found the tour at Bodega Lopez to be quite intriguing.
In our opinion, this would be the best tour to start your day with (11.00 am first tour), especially if you have a basic knowledge of how wine is made. The guide was sharp, exhaustive, and as they are used to the big crowd, they know also how to capture your attention without boring or getting too technical, while still presenting their reality with plenty of details.
There you’ll see your firsts Toneles, colossal 25.000 litre oak barrels, stare at you from above, and it makes quite the impression.
Bodega Lopez ages their wines in classic oak wood for 6 years in big barrels, 3 years in smaller ones, and 1 year in bottle.
Tours are free of charge, run every 30 minutes without breaks, and include two tastings.

Bodega Cava de Don Arturo: THIS was the highlight of our Mendoza wineries tour. If you had to choose only one winery, be sure it’s this one.
The passion transmitted, the technical details about the process, the tasting, made this winery something totally different than Bodega Lopez.
Don Arturo is a small, family-run business whose know-how has been passed from generation to generation.
Tour and tasting are free of charge and include two different Malbec, and one Cab-Sav. Mendoza is considered the world-wide cradle of Malbec variety and we think THIS is the place where to learn how to appreciate it.
We also bought a bottle for 250 pesos (they start at 180 pesos), a delicious one.
Teléfono: 0261 – 4963858
Dirección: Franklin Villanueva 2233. Lunlunta, Maipú – Mendoza, Argentina.

Mendoza Wineries Tour

Tempus Alba: I wouldn’t say that Tempus Alba is a must-see, but it has two good things one must mention: first of all it’s a free self-guided tour, which means it’s perfect for the lunch break we were writing about above, to fill that gap of free time doing something if you are not interested in having expensive lunches. Plus, it’s in Maipu area, conveniently located for bicycles rides. Second, you can walk in their vineyard and take interesting pictures of it, or sit and chill in their open area outside while eating good grapes at your disposal free of charge. A chilling filler.

Lujan de Cuyo

Bodega San Huberto: This is in Lujan de Cuyo area, one of the walk-ins friendly wineries.
We saw the building (it’s quite old) and ringed the bell, and got a free of charge tour with two tastings. While we weren’t impressed by the wines, we would still recommend the tour. It was nice to be alone having a friendly and unformal chat with a winemaker after all the massively crowded tours before. Also, the area has many viewpoints that provides the best shots over vineyards in Mendoza’s surroundings.

What distilleries are worth a visit in San Rafael?

The area presents wineries and vineyards more unformal than the nearest centers of the great Mendoza, with quality of wine that expand to the sparkling white dry and the torrontés mendocino, and a place far from international mass tourism.
There is tourism in this area, yes, but it is a much more local tourism compared to Maipu or Lujan de Cuyo, especially formed by Argentinian who come from Buenos Aires looking for wines to be bought for the year.

Bodega la Abeja: we really enjoyed the smaller, more private group. Free of charge and with many tastings, can’t even count how many we had, maybe 5 or 6 different wines. The tour was knowledgeable and the wines were tasty. Overall one of the best tours we had in all Mendoza region!

Bodega Bianchi: huge, 100 pesos for the visit including 2 wines tasting; we were not impressed, nor by the tour (more focused on trying to entertain the crowd with cheap jokes about how beautiful it is being drunk than by focusing on entertaining with knowledge and passion), nor by the tastings (by far the worst wines we had in the region, and I’m sad to give it a bad vote because the owner is Italian like I am, but has definitely lost the touch of wines’ finesse while exporting the technique…).
I am listening it here anyway because you’ll for sure stumble on their name in the guides and tours, so better to review them anyway.

Are there any other interesting things to do in San Rafael area?

The Historic Centre of the city is alive, well groomed, and just a few miles away we find the famous Borges Maze, a location suitable for families and those who want to spend a different afternoon.
So if you’re wondering if a detour to San Rafael from the most famous ruta 40 would be worth it, for us the answer was YES. Especially if you connect it with a detour to the Ruta 173 to go South through the Canyon del Atuél.

Final considerations:

You can watch our tour on our channel, give us a LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to our channel if you enjoyed our content:

Our experience in Mendoza wineries (ITA SUB ENG)

We enjoyed Mendoza wineries.
Despite us being more Whiskey or Gin lovers, wine in this region is simply something you can not skip, even if you are not a wine lover.
The tours are run with passion and at least one-two days in Mendoza will give you the basic knowledge that should be part of the general culture scene.
Highlights of our visit were Bodega Don Arturo and Bodega La Abeja, but we think Bodega Lopez is also worth your time.
Totally recommended!

Don Huberto Winery

If you liked this article, you may want to check out our articles about other spirits as well… Such as Ruta del Pisco in Peru, Pisco Valley in ChileTequilaMezcal, or Bourbon.

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How to visit the Elqui Pisco Valley in Chile – Everything you need to know before going

The Elqui Valley was one of the greatest places we visited in all our South American trip.
With a combination of hitchhiking and local transport, we visited lots of different “Pisquere” (Pisco distillery) and got to know and taste the distillate so disputed between Chile and Peru 🍹🥃

Picture of mountains and vineyards
Valle del Elqui

Do you follow this page to get to know different, unusual realities hidden to most? To discover secret, non turistic gems to esplore…? Or to have a hint on alternative tourism destinations…?
Either way, just know that due to our particular sphere of interest, we often see drapes of reality that most tourists skip… And we can tell you about it, adding even a professional touch to it, due to the fact that YES, we do work in this industry 😚

Was Pisco born in Peru or in Chile? And the Pisco Sour? What distinguishes Pisco from Italian Grappa or from French Brandy, Cognac or Armagnac…?
Or do you simply want to know how to organize your visit independentely at the best? If you want to discover all the answers keep reading, this valleys looks gorgeous and we have plenty to discover together!! 🥰

What is Pisco?

First of all, let’s start with the basics.
Pisco comes from grapes currently produced in Peru and Chile, made primarily by distillation of the product of the vine, such as brandy and cognac, grappa or acquavite. So yes, it’s a SPIRIT and it comes from the fermentation and distillation of GRAPES.
You can find more about it in the RUTA DEL PISCO PERUVIANO article or down below.

Where is the Pisco Valley located?

Pisco Valley – Where is it located?

The Pisco Valley is located in Chile, between the cities of Vicuñas and the Artisanal village of Horcòn. The route that connects the valley and its distilleries is PAVED, in good condition all year round and has a mitigated climate.

The closest big city from where to start your independent journey OR take a tour is La Serena, a 2 hours bus drive away. Santiago de Chile is quite far away, at 10 hours bus drive South… Still, it can be a good option if you are looking for a night bus and to save a night this way.

Vineyards in Arenal

How to get to the Pisco Valley?

There are different options to get to Pisco Valley.

  1. If starting from Santiago: you can either take a bus to La Serena (7 hours, 550 km, 10.000 pesos semi-cama style seats with Turbus company), spend a night there and then take a bus to the Pisco Valley, or take a direct bus to Vicuña (10 hours, 17.000 pesos semi-cama style seats, Turbus company is the only one making this journey and there is only night option). Prices can vary in high season.
  2. If starting from La Serena: you can either take a bus to Vicuña (2.000 pesos), visit Vicuñas, and then take another bus to Pisco Elqui village (2.500 pesos), or take a direct bus to Pisco Elqui first (3.500 pesos) and then visit Vicuñas on the way back. You can ask the bus driver to stop in any location between this sites (we asked to stop in Aba Pisquera, for example).
    There are also a few buses that goes all the way to Horcòn village, 7 km further than Pisco Elqui, which is where currently the paved road end.
    Still, there are works in progress to get the asphalt further down to the next village, if one is interested.
    You can also take a colectivo (shared taxi) in La Serena (Calle Domeyko) until Vicuña (abt. CLP 2.000).
Valle del Elqui

What’s the best way to explore the Pisco Valley?

The Elqui Valley and its distilleries

Once you reached Vicuña, you have different options:

  • Hitchhike to the diffent distilleries and sites or to rent a bike. To reach Pisco Elqui village is 38 km, if you wish to go further to Distilleria los Nichos it’s 42 km. Mostly flat or decent degrees, with curves and amazing landscapes.
    The maximum wait we ever had for a ride (hitchhiking) was 10 minutes.
    Due to the sunny climate (300 days a year) bring sunblock, sunglasses and a hat. And PLENTY of water.
  • Too much adventure? To go to Pisco Elqui by bus there are plenty of options. Bus is 2.000 pesos and leaves every 20 minutes. You can ask the bus driver to stop at any point of the ride, he knows all the distilleries and will be glad to leave you there.
    You can pay for the ride in cash when you get off the bus.
  • Still too much hassle for you? There are tours available from La Serena. Although we encourage you to do it on your own.
    Tours are more expensive (30.000 pesos per person, against the 15.000 pesos we spent to do it on our own), they will NOT bring you to the best places and will fill your time bringing you shopping for artisanal markets, a Papaya Jams producer, to a long lunch in a restaurant… And ONE distillery only (which is obviously the one with crowdy tours and cheap explanations, more focused on you having the good photo for your socials than to actually explain you the process).
    If you are in a rush, it’s no excuse: you can still make it in one day on your own. Let’s see how.
Pisco Elqui church
Pisco Elqui

Where do I take the bus from, to get to the Pisco Valley?

In La Serena, there are two bus companies AND three different places where to take the bus.

If you take the bus from the bus terminal, the company available is “Via Elqui”. Which is slightly cheaper but has way less rides a day. First one is 8.30am.

If you take the bus from “Pasarela Lider” (GPS coordinates -29.902569, -71.256327 ), “La Recova” (GPS coordinates -29.900721, -71.245872 ), the bus company is “Sol de Elqui” (prices above, runs every 30 minutes, first one to Pisco Elqui is at 8.30 am, first one to Vicuna is at 8.20am).

Still, from all those bus stops the bus will make other stops around the city for 20-30 minutes. To avoid this and to go to the most direct stop, from which the bus will finally exit the city and head to Pisco Elqui, you shall take the bus from the “plaza de Abasto” (Via Elqui AND Sol de Elqui company). The GPS coordinates are -29.907292, -71.243878 (in front of Feria Abasto, same side of the road).
This is also the ONLY LOCATION IN TOWN where the bus has a 6.20 am departure to Pisco Elqui, making it the EARLIEST you can start.

The buses pass Vicuña, Paihuano, Montegrande and finally reach Pisco Elqui. Only very few buses continue to Horcón (3 times a day).

INSIDER TIP: I strongly recommend you to start from the end (Pisco Elqui) and slowly head back to La Serena, and not the opposite. Why?
First of all, tours do the opposite, so you’ll have less people in your tours.
Second, it takes precious time to get to Pisco Elqui, and if you go to Los Nichos (further South), even more time. And they have less tours, so it’s best to do it as first or second tour.

How do I organize my independent one-day trip to Pisco Valley?

When one wants to go for an independent one-day trip, time is of the essential. And organization is key to success.
First thing you have to bear in mind are the opening times of the different distilleries you want to visit: most of them open at 10.00am, have a first tour around 11.00am, have a last tour at 5.30pm, and close at 6.00pm.
Tours usually lasts 40-45 minutes.

Pisco Elqui Murales

You have the chance to visit 4 places AT MOST in one day.
This is why we would recommend to spend a night in Pisco Elqui and allow a 2 days tour to enjoy and fully comprehend this complex reality.
Still, making it in one day is for sure possible, if you start from La Serena or Vicuña.

Take the first bus in the morning from La Serena: it’s NEVER too early. The 6.20 am bus (as described above) is your best option, as it leaves you in Pisco Elqui at 8.30 am. You have time for breakfast, to snap a few pictures (the sun hits perfectly the church in the mornings only) and the first distillery to have a tour would be Mistral (in the main plaza).

If you take the following bus (8.20 am from La Recova, 8.30am from Plaza de Abasto) you’ll be in Pisco Elqui at 10.45am. Missing a precious 45 minutes since distilleries opened. Still, that’s the option we took, as we are not morning people.

For the way back, remember there are no buses at night; the last bus leaves La Serena at 20.00 hrs and from Pisco Elqui the last bus also leaves at 20.00 hrs. The last bus from Vicuña to La Serena is at 9.30pm and will drop you off at La Recova or at the Bus Terminal.

Pisquera Mistral

INSIDER TIP: Bring your own bags and a backpack, as distilleries don’t give plastic bags and only few bottles have packagings (the higher quality ones). You will also be given free glasses as souvenirs in lots of tours so be sure to have something to pack them properly.

THE RIGHT SEASON: If you want to live the experience at fullest, have the greatest scenery and see the grapes juice run through the veins of the Pisquera’s machineries, February to May is the harvesting season.
Tours are still opened year-round.

Which distilleries are not to be missed during my Pisco Valley tour in Chile?

When we arrived to Pisco Elqui, the first bus to Horcon was at 1.30pm… Too late for us! And there were no shared taxis either. So we opted to hitchhike to our first Pisquera, FUNDO LOS NICHOS, the oldest in all Chile and overall the best tour we had.
It’s not that far, it’s 4km walk from the village, but if you boarded our same bus at 8.20am you won’t make it for the first tour, which is vital in order to get to the next ones.

Fundo Los Nichos:

Tour hours: 11.30am – 1.00pm – 16.00 pm – 17.00pm
Tour price: 2.500 pesos
Tour language: Spanish only, if not agreed differently
Contact: +56 51 2451085,
Location: 4 km South of Pisco Elqui, on the way to Horcon
Amount of people per tour: we had 8 pp in our tour

Tour knowledge and guide: our guide was passioned about the production process, precise in the explanations and answers, sharp in knowledge.

Highlights: the vault and its art and history are interesting and makes you live the meaning of the words “oldest pisquera in chile”.

Tasting: we tried the Pisco Especial 35° and the Pisco Reservado 40°. They were both DELICIOUS. We ended up buying a bottle of the Pisco Especial 35°, slightly sweeter than the other, for 5.500 pesos.

Overall: The best tour we had. A hint of the distillery history, very informative explanation on the process, competent and enthusiastic guide. They even made the tour 1 hour long as we had many questions.

After the tour in Los Nichos, we hitchhiked back to the village and arrived to MISTRAL DISTILLERY for their next tour (we lost one hour chatting with our drivers tho). We went to the 1.30pm one, but you may be able to make it for the 12.30pm one if you are lucky.

Mistral Distillery:

Tour hours: 10.30am – 18.00pm every hour (10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, etc)
Jan-Feb only: 12.00pm – 18.30 pm (closed on Mondays)
Tour price: 6.000 pesos
Tour language: Every few tours in Spanish, there is one in English
Contact: +56 51 2451358
Location: Pisco Elqui main square
Amount of people per tour: we had 11 pp in our tour

Tour knowledge and guide: our guide was bored and borying, looked annoyed when we asked questions. He was annoyingly posing making the Victory sign with the hands every time we wanted to take a picture with him in it, which means no chances to make a decent, natural looking photo.

Highlights: it’s the only distillery where we got the chance to walk in the vineyards, which make it for a cool pic. They give you flute glasses you used for the tasting as a souvenir gift (too bad Pisco shall not be drunk from a champagne flute… but okay) plus a free mix of their Pisco and a kind of soda in a bottle, which is nice if you want to chill and chat in their bar while resting for a while. Also, the coolest cellar with barriques was Mistral.

Tasting: we tried the Cata de Pisco Mistral 40° and Pisco Mistral Nobel.
After we tasted the Los Nichos ones, there was no sense in those two.
They tasted bad in my opinion. If you are into tastings, it may be worth to take the Premium tour for 12.000pesos where they offer you the Pisco Mistral Gran Nobel, Pisco Mistral Nobel D.O 1931, Pisco Mistral Nobel.

Overall: The worst tour we had. A hint of the Pisco history, a small museum with the reproduction of objects, machineries and a room with a table and glasses. Our guide seemed to can not wait to get rid of us.
Still, he responded correctly to most of our questions, so he was knowledgable… Just not very interested in sharing.
If you have to skip one distillery, make it be this one. It is probably okay if you are absolutely into pictures and not very interested in the actual thing… But even this, when you get to the Alambiques or Barriques, you have to stay behind a yellow line on the floor. So.. I don’t know.
We opted for this one because we also wanted to see the difference between an Artisanal Pisquera and a Modern one with higher volume… We got the difference, totally. It just looks ridiculous you have to pay such a high price for a poorer explanation and tasting (even bottles are more expensive here). A place for guided tours from La Serena only.

When the tour finished, we jumped straight to the bus to Vicuña.
It was 3.00pm and we asked to be dropped off in front of ABA PISQUERA, our next destination. The bus charged us 2.000pesos (same price as to Vicuña, as it’s only 5 km away) and we had a 1,5km walk (first 1 km gentle uphill through vineyards).

Aba Pisquera:

Tour hours: whenever you arrive, in 10 minutes
Tour price: free
Tour language: Spanish, not sure for English
Contact: +56 51 2411039 / Cel.: 87822774 Email:
Location: 4 km East of Vicuña, in the village of Arenal
Amount of people per tour: private

Tour knowledge and guide: our guide was chatty, passioned and proud about Pisco and its company, precise in the explanations and answers, sharp in knowledge.

Highlights: the Pisquera is surrounded in a beautiful landscape, with a blue lake, vineyards and flowers as nourishment for the bees, vital for the grapes. The ovens and machineries are still old and the techniques are still the first ones, using the recipes of the ancestors. Good spot for pictures as well and interesting, alternative tasting.

Tasting: we had two shots of pre-bottled cocktails: one with mango flavor, the other with blueberry flavor. We usually don’t like sweet and fruity cocktails, but they were so good we ended up buying the mango one for 7.000pesos. Plus we tried “Cola del Mono”, a Chilean creamy cocktail similar to the Pisco Cream we had tried in Peru, and another shot of pure Pisco.

Overall: Considering the tour is free, private and on a show basis – plus they give you 4 shots as tasting – the customer service is outstanding.
They value their company and brand, and they want the customers to get to KNOW and UNDERSTAND what they do, how they do it, and with how much love. This is the best advertisement and philosophy a company can have.
It really makes you want to buy something to support them.
Also, the most technical tour we had about the production process.
Totally promoted!

After this tour we walked back to the main road, and checked who was arriving first: the bus or a free ride by hitchhiking? The free ride won and drove us directly to our next destination: CENTRO TURISTICO CAPEL.

Centro Turistico Capel:

Tour hours: From 10.00am to 17.00pm
Tour price: 4.000 pesos
Tour language: Spanish and English
Contact: + 56-51-2554337 | 56 -51-2554351
Location: 1 km South of Vicuña
Amount of people per tour: max 15 people

Tour: we arrived too late for the last tour so we didn’t make it. But as I said earlier, we lost one hour chatting with some drivers, so if you avoid this you will probably make it on time. Just know that all tours come to this place so it may be crowded.

Highlights: this is the perfect place for souvenirs, as they have t-shirts, hats, glasses, bottles for sale, plus they have a small 5-shops village built inside giant barriques, which is actually cute, and they sell handcrafts. Even tho we were late, we could still visit it and do the tasting.

Tasting: they offered us both Pisco puro (which wasn’t the best), “Cola del Mono” cocktail in a shot, another creamy Pisco one, and a shot of their pre-bottled Pisco Sour (too weak in proof, too lemonish).
Despite it not being excellent, we appreciated the effort to come to us first and offer us their tasting experience despite it was 15 minutes before closing… Lots of people would rather prefer to do the closing instead, but they opted for the customer service anyway… Which we did appreciate.

Overall: the overall idea of the place was it’s a touristic trap. Unfortunately even the Pisco Museum was closed for renovations, which wasn’t written in their website so we were not informed about it.
Still, we always appreciate a good customer service, especially when people are not pushy in convincing you to buy something.
This place is also conveniently located so you can walk from Vicuña, and makes it a good option if you’re still up to something.
It would not be my first choice, but it’s a good filler if you have some spare time.

Valle del Elqui


We didn’t have time to visit them, and we regret it.
That’s why I would suggest a two-days tour… Or skip Mistral and Capel in order to focus on the Artisinal Pisqueras.
Los Nichos and Aba Pisquera are a must… Plus I would add a visit to:

Destilleria Doña Josefa de Elqui

GPS coordinates: -30.132284, -70.499181
Located: 1,5 km South of Pisco Elqui, between the village and Los Nichos
Note: it got recommended to us, it’s another artisanal one and it’s FREE

Cavas del Valle
GPS coordinates: -30.075258, -70.496778
Located: between Pisco Elqui and Paihuano
Note: for wine lovers, this place is not a Pisquera, but a winery


What else to visit in Valle del Pisco? Are there other attractions?

Yes there are.

In Montegrande, a small town located in the Claro River Valley, the House School Museum is where Gabriela Mistral, famous Chilean poetress, lived and took her first steps in her life as an educator. It’s now opened and it’s a museum with a a small entrance fee.

You can also watch the stars and the Elqui Valley is one of the best skies of the world for it and there are therefore 5 observatories to choose from. It has the grace of being located in an area where there is no public lighting in several kilometers around, which guarantees perfectly clean skies.

Programs, times and prices are all very similar:
Every day, from 9.30 PM, astronomical tours are organized, which cost between $8,500 – $15,000 for adults and $ 4,000 – 7,500 for children.
They last two hours and leave with a direct observation of the sky with a naked eye from its pleasant terrace.
Then, they continue with an interactive chat in the multimedia room and with the observation through two 14-inch telescopes.
Guided by certified experts, from there you can observe from planets to nebulas, which are clouds of star dust and gas.

Cancana, Chakana, Mamalluca, Astro Experiencia Migrantes, Cielo Sur are the observatories names and links to websites.
You can read more about them HERE.

Pisquera Aba

Still curious about Pisco…?
Want to know more? Here is a few things you’ll want to know before taking a tour to the Elqui Valley…

What are the differences between Peruvian Pisco and Chilean Pisco?

Despite them carrying the same name and belonging to the category of Brandy, they have two different standards for their production – for the Peruvian pisco and for the Chilean pisco – so they are technically considered different products, but within the same group of spirits.

Differencies are so many that to enlist them will be impossible… They also vary from Pisqueras (Pisco’s distilleries) to Pisqueras.

Zonas pisqueras (red) and of the Singani liquor (green) for the law in Bolivia, Chile y Peru

If you want to know more about the Peruvian Pisco, I wrote a separate article about it that you can find here: RUTA DEL PISCO IN PERU.
Yes, I visited the Peruvian Pisco Road as well, and as it’s such a complex topic I decided to make two separate articles. The one you are reading focuses on the CHILEAN PISCO and on the PISCO VALLEY IN CHILE.

About the differences, you can compare and notice differences almost at each step of the production. To start with, the Peruvian Pisco allows to use up to 7 different species of grapes, and even to mix them together, while the Chilean one uses only a few of them (Muscatel, Italia, Torontel, Pedro Jiménez). With the result that the Peruvian Pisco has a wilder spectrum of flavours available, some drier, some sweeter. While the Chilean Pisco comes from sweet grapes only, giving it a smoother flavour easier to drink.

The dispute: was Pisco born in Chile or Peru? Who can use the name Pisco? And Pisco Sour Cocktail?

Valle del Elqui

There is a controversy about the legitimacy of the use of the name “pisco”, in reference to the brandy of grapes produced in Peru and Chile. In this regard, there is a historical difference between the two countries. Peru claims that the name is an exclusive denomination of origin and Chile maintains that both have the right to use it.

Peru considers that the name applied to the spirit drink has a close relationship with the geographical space where it is produced in that country, in the city of Pisco and its surroundings, so that it should have exclusivity in its use, in addition to the fact that such a brandy was produced in the lands of Peru since the end of the 16th century.
It was declared as a Peruvian denomination by administrative resolution in 1990, officially establishing its production territory the following year.

For its part, Chile argues that the term is equally applicable to distilled beverage produced from grapes in its territory, where there is a town that uses that name —Pisco Elqui, adopted in 1936; previously known as La Unión and before La Greda, and of pisco tradition since the beginning of the 18th century -, legally establishing itself as a denomination of Chilean origin and defining a geographical area for its production in 1931.
It does not deny that such a product could have been manufactured first in Peru, but argues that such denomination has been used to designate the brandy of grapes produced in both countries, since colonial times, so it can be used by both Chile and Peru; in that sense, it has been argued that it would be a generic term, defending that the denomination of origin of its variety is «Chilean pisco», or that it would be a binational denomination.

About the Pisco Sour cocktail and recipe, the name was first registered in Chile, as soon as it conquered the area from Peru while in war. So it legally belongs to Chile.

What are the differences between Pisco and the Italian Grappa, or the French Brandy, Cognac and Armagnac?

Pisquera Mistral

Grappa is a distillate that comes from the fermentation of the skins of the berries (grapes, vinaccia), so the juice is NOT the raw material for distillation (it is used instead to produce wine). The grapes must necessarily come from vines grown in Italy (DOC).

If the distillate is made from Italian wine and aged in wood, then it is called “Brandy”. If made with French wine, it takes the name of “Cognac” (if produced in one of the 7 regions) or “Armagnac” (if the Armagnac still is used).

«Brandy» and «Cognac» therefore use the pulp and juice from the pressing of the bunches, while the grappa is obtained from the distillation of mixtures of fermented pomace or pomace from individual vines (in our case only Italian ones).

How is Pisco produced in Chile?

Pisquera Aba

Its production consists of four major phases: the cultivation and harvest of pisco grapes, winemaking for pisco purposes, the distillation of wine to obtain pisco and, finally, packaging in consumption units. Such activities can only be carried out in the so-defined Zonas Pisqueras: Valle del Elqui, Valle del Huasco, Valle del Limari and all the province of Copiapò and Atacama.

The harvest of pisco grapes begins in the middle of the month of February of each year, usually with the earliest variety — the Muscat of Austria — and concludes with those of the longest cycle — the Muscat of Alexandria and Pedro Jiménez — , and is ultimately defined by the degree of potential alcohol that the grape grains have in the cluster, which must be equal to or greater than 10.50º.

First the grapes go through a machinery with clusters, of high speeds of rotation, that cause excessive ruptures of unwanted elements in the musts, such as brooms (maceration and pressing). Skin and seeds will remain in the fermentation process instead, activated by the action of natural yeasts.

The wine distillation process for the production of alcohol for pisco should be done in discontinuous cycle stills. The distillation of the wines of each season, begins immediately after these are in conditions for such purpose, and cannot exceed the date of January 31 of the following year, to avoid that it coincides with the fruit of the incoming harvest. The alcohols, after being distilled for the preparation of pisco, must have a minimum rest of 60 days, which can be done in steel tanks or in raulí fudres (a Chilean roble).

In Chilean pisco producers can add demineralized water to adjust the resulting alcohol content after they cut off head and tail, that will be sold to other companies for their methanol content and, therefore, energy of combustion.

Pisco can be sold as it is or be aged. Sometimes a year of aging is done in giant barrels of 1500 liters.
Then it is moved to smaller barrels (150-250 lt).
Here they use American oak, French oak or a Chilean oak (rabli), depending on the Pisquera (three different pisquere in the video below, 3 different woods).
Everyone uses new barrels, which last about 20 years, and never age it for more than 3 years. 🙂
In Chile, aging is therefore more apt to give it color than flavor, as they do not have great climatic changes or a particular culture of treatment of these barrels, which they buy already made. So they have no clue about the treatment of those (how long they get burned for, for example).
Angel’s share – the amount of alcohol lost per year of aging due to evaporation – is also low, at a declared 3% a year (but I suspect it’s more like 6%).


We enjoyed our trip in the Elqui Valley and, to be fair, we enjoyed Chilean Pisco more than the Peruvian one (sorry Peru. we still love you!).

The Elqui Valley offred us not only an opportunity to learn something new, but incredible views of certain beauty, united with taste and the kindness of the locals. Therefore, I would recommend this experience both to the mixologist and conoisseur AND to the regular tourist.

Valle del Elqui

If you liked this article, you may want to check out our articles about other spirits as well… Such as Ruta del Pisco in Peru, Tequila, Mezcal, or Bourbon.

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A Video in Italian language about our experience in the Elqui Valley can be found here:

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La Ruta del Pisco in Peru

Pisco is a flagship product of Peru. It is obtained exclusively by the distillation of fresh musts of recently fermented “Grapes”, using traditional methods that maintain quality standards, making it the Peruvian cousin of the “Grappa” spirit from Italy.

Have you ever found yourself in a store, in front of a Pisco shelf, without knowing which one to choose? Varieties and types of Piscos can create some confusion, so I propose to take a look at the range of Piscos that exist and thus be able to buy the most suitable for the occasion. We don’t want you to start your vacation in Peru and enter the Ruta del Pisco without some proper preparation, so that anyone can sell you anything for the wrong price or you end up buying something you don’t like or understand 🙂

types of piscos, sweet wines and creams
Ruta del Pisco

Here is a little guide that will help you through your Ruta del Pisco visit, including names and experiences of distilleries you can’t miss.

We also recommend you visit the Peru general page if you’re looking for technical information about how to organize your holiday in Peru (which sim card to get, where NOT to withdraw money at an atm, how much we spent, etc).
To discover new places to visit and see our travel itinerary, pages are NORTH PERU and SOUTH PERU.

Let’s start our full immersion on Pisco 😉


Ruta del Pisco is in Peru, in the coastal zone, specifically in the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. This area is famous worldwide for Pisco production and is marked by a Denomination of Origin.

Being bartenders ourselves, we couldn’t skip some cultural trip to the Pisco land 😉

We briefly passed by the town of Pisco… Which is not the best place to have a Pisco tour, I know the name can be misleading, but actually the best place where to start is the town of Ica, where most of the production happen.

The best period for it is during the harvesting months (March and April), where you have the chance to see the magic. But if like us you came in August, they will show you machinery that, not being in function, would mean little to you.

Lagar Pisa de Uva
Ruta del Pisco

Still, tours are all year-round, and there will be free tastings involved, and you’ll still receive good information about the process…

…Or, you could show up prepared, keep reading below 😉



Made from a single variety of pisco grapes, that comes from a single strain, which gives Pisco a stamp of unmistakable flavor. The Pisco Puro has a special flavor, ideal to enjoy it and to taste it exquisitely, in addition, it is the most recommended for the preparation of Pisco sour. 

It is important to note that, in each bottle of Pisco Puro, the manufacturer must mention the type of grape he used for its production.

Now, as with varietal wines where Sauvignon Blanc is different from Chardonnay or Malbec different from Merlot, the characteristics of each Pure Pisco vary depending on the grape that gives rise to it.


bottle of pisco mosto verde, tipo quebranta, from Distilleria El Catador SAC

Made with grapes that did not finish their fermentation process, the grape must is distilled before all the sugar has been transformed into alcohol. It stands out for being subtle, elegant, fine and full-bodied. It has a varied structure of aroma and flavors, and also a tactile sensation in the mouth, almost as if it were velvety (umami flavor, like olives). As a greater amount of must is necessary for its preparation, it becomes a high quality product and, therefore, with a higher price.

Since pisco Mosto Verde refers to the elaboration process, they can be made with each of the eight authorized grape varieties and even acholado.


The Pisco Acholado is the product of the mixture of at least two of the eight varieties of pisco grapes, it is prepared with the mixture of different types of strains, combining the aromas of the aromatic grapes with the flavors of the non-aromatic ones. This blend or mixture can be made between pisco grapes, musts of pisco grapes, fresh fermented musts of pisco grapes and between pisco from pisco grapes. 

Each winery produces its own pisco Acholado, since there is no regulation that defines the grapes to be mixed or their proportions. Therefore, each winemaker will look for the most appropriate combination of grapes to produce novel sensations.

“The origin of the name Acholado seems to come from the reference to the“ Cholo ”or mestizo who worked in the old estates. They picked up the leftover grapes from the owners’ crops and made their own pisco, which was often as appreciated as that of the landowner. ”


There are eight varieties of grapes authorized by the Denomination of Origin to produce Pisco:

pisco resting for a few days
Ruta del Pisco

Creole Black

It provides pisco with a lot of character and structure, robust and with a sense of astringency. Its aromas remind us of fruits such as apple, olive or citrus; as well as syrup or pecans.


It usually produces pisco with good structure in the mouth, although with less robustness and astringency. Its aromas can remind of herbs, herbs and fruits such as apple, banana, pear, loquat, and nuts.


Close the group of white grapes that provide pisco with a strong character and structure in the mouth. Its aromas usually remind of fresh herbs and hay, nuts such as almonds or pecans. Ripe fruits such as banana, apple, mango or lucuma. Until a few years ago it was called pure only pisco made from this variety.


It is a variety that can only be cultivated in the districts of Lunahuaná, Pacarán and Zúñiga in Cañete. Piscos of medium structure and body are obtained from it. It has aromas that usually remind of fresh fruits like olives. Orange and citrus; fresh and aromatic herbs .


It produces a very fine and soft pisco on the palate. Its aromas are expressive and reminiscent of flowers such as lavender, orange blossom, tropical fruits, citrus fruits, and species such as cinnamon.


From this variety you get more delicate and subtle pisco on the palate. It has aromas that also remind citrus and fresh fruits such as plum, banana, nuts, herbs and flowers.



From this strain you get a light pisco on the palate. Its aromas are fresh and reminiscent of dried and fresh fruits such as raisins, peach, pear; as well as white flowers, herbs, citrus, honey, roasted aromas and spices.


Pisco made with this variety are usually very friendly on the palate, with a pleasant sensation of softness on the palate. Its aromas remind citrus, fresh and ripe fruits such as grapes, mango and pineapple, as well as dried fruits and flowers. This variety opens the doors to the family of muscat grapes, which include Torontel, Albilla and Moscatel itself. These are usually designated as aromatic grapes and indeed produce piscos very expressive in aromas.


1. A pisco to drink it pure

If you want to drink a pure pisco and like products with a lot of character, strength and personality on the palate, you can choose between one of Negra Criolla, Mollar or Quebranta. If you prefer those more friendly on the palate, you can choose between those with very expressive and complex aromas such as Italy and Torontel, or something more subtle on the nose such as Muscat and Albilla.

2. A pisco to prepare cocktails

The pisco you use will depend on the inputs and the character or strength of the cocktail. For example, if you want a cocktail where the flavor and texture of the inputs stand out as in the case of lemon and sugar from Pisco Sour, we suggest using a pisco Quebranta, Negra Criolla or Mollar, which allows you to restore the taste balance and highlight the aromas, and flavors of inputs. If you want to use an Acholado, we recommend that you have as a main component any of the mentioned varieties, the other varieties being able to contribute some aromatic complexity.

happy people drinking pisco based cocktails

In the case of fruity and light cocktails such as Pisco Punch, the muscat varieties allow to enhance and complement the aromas and flavors of the juices or inputs used. Here the Acholados go very well, because they contribute some structure and character to these mixtures, without losing their expressiveness and freshness.

3. A pisco for gift

As a gift it is always good to take into account the taste of the person who wants to flatter and if he usually drinks Pisco alone or in a cocktail. Remember that piscos vary from those with a lot of personality and character, to the softest and most aromatic. There is also a whole range of excellent little known pisco, which come from less accessible regions and valleys such as Majes, Caravelí, Moquegua and Tacna.


In the northern part of Ica city there is a place called “El Catador”, which is both a restaurant, a bar, and where they distill Pisco and sweet wines.

Why so special? Because El Catador is not only “El Catador”… This place is a whole touristic alley with many bars, restaurants, and different brands introducing their products!

And it’s always quite busy as well, with different tours and hop-on, hop-off buses coming and going. They also allow Overlanders to stay in their parking lot overnight for free, the staff is been more than welcoming with us and we loved the customer service they had!

First thing we had a free tour with a lovely girl from El Catador, a knowledgeable young lady whom explained us all the harvesting and distilling process and all the differences between Piscos categories and between the typical wines of the region.

Then we tried their ice-cream, which was actually really good and cheap; we topped it up with some Pisco cream liquor, which we also bought for 15 soles (250 ml).

Quebranta bottle by Tres Generaciones

As the place closes at 6.00pm, we returned the day after for more tastings: this time we tried a different shop, sponsoring the brand “Tres Generaciones”; in my opinion when approaching a new spirit you shall always try different brands to get a clear idea of what you like. In our case, we got the confirmation that we preferred dry Piscos over sweet ones (mostly depends on the grapes involved in the process), in particular Quebranta grapes based and Mosto Verde processing.

Other distilleries you can visit in the area are the famous Pisco Portòn, one of the higher quality from Peru: tours cost 30 soles per person and it’s better to reserve a day in advance at the phone number 981 249 789.

Not far from the firsts two, there is Vina Tacama: basic tours start from Wednesday to Sunday from 9.30am to 4.30pm and the cost is 10 soles per person, but they offer various levels and prices of tours, all including tastings. This is a tourist place and also has a restaurant.

South of Ica is Ocucaje Bodega, that offers winery and distillery tours for free. This place is the oldest bodega in Pisco and is also a paleontology site with large whale bones. The tour is quick and in Spanish, and can be reserved at or Working hours are Mon-Fri 8am – 2pm and Sat 8am – 1pm. Closed on Sundays.

Obviously watch out, with all these free tastings it’s easy to pass the limit without noticing… Bear in mind the Panamerican Highway has plenty of police checks, especially in this area! 😉


A variety of cocktails are prepared with the national drink, among them the famous Pisco Sour.

Punch of the Liberators

It is a tradition in the Congress of the Republic of Peru, since 1821, to provide in the parliamentary precinct after each transmission of the Supreme Command, on July 28, the day of the independence of Peru, with the “Punch of the Liberators.” This cocktail has its origin in India. He arrived in Peru, probably at the beginning of the 19th century and offered for the first time, already mixed with pisco, after swearing independence in the Cabildo de Lima.

This traditional cocktail incorporates in its ingredients: 1 ounce of pisco, 1 ounce of white rum, 1 ounce of golden rum, 1/2 ounce of carob, 1 1/2 ounce of black beer, 1 1/2 ounce of evaporated milk, 1 egg and 2 ounces of rubber syrup.

Its preparation consists of boiling all the ingredients except the egg, letting it cool and liquefy the whole with the incorporated egg. It is served in hot drink glasses, decorating with cinnamon.

Pisco Sour

A fruity cocktail on the left, Pisco Sour in the center, Chilcano on the right
A fruity cocktail on the left, Pisco Sour in the center, Chilcano on the right

In Peru, Pisco sour is considered the most traditional cocktail prepared based on pisco, receiving the consideration of Peruvian national drink.

According to the classic recipe, Pisco sour in Peru is made up of 3 ounces of pisco, 1 ounce of lemon juice, 1 ounce of gum syrup, 1 egg white, 6 ice cubes and 2 drops of Angostura bitters.

The preparation consists of shaking the ice cubes in a shaker with the pisco, the lemon, the rubber syrup and the egg white until you hear the ice cracking. Using a blender, beat for one minute and only at the end the egg white is added giving a blender stroke of no more than 4 seconds.

To serve, it is recommended to take care of filling the glass halfway, taking care not to pass a lot of foam, using the two drops of Angostura bitters.

Chilcano de Pisco

Chilcano is a traditional Peruvian drink that is prepared on the basis of pisco, preferably with soda water, although you can also mix with cola or soda of another flavor, as since 1935, the Peruvian Inca Kola.

Pisco punch

pisco based cocktails

The pisco punch is a cocktail created at the end of the 19th century in San Francisco, United States of America, by Duncan Nicol. This drink was prepared with Peruvian pisco, which was imported by American merchants who took it to San Francisco from the ports of Peru. Its preparation consists of the mixture of pisco, pineapple, lemon juice, sugar, gum arabic and distilled water.

There are a long list of cocktails you can create with Pisco.
The extended list of tropical fruits available in Peru is long, and you can just play with so many fresh ingredients to give space to your creativity…! My favorite, for example, is Maracuya Sour (Passionfruit Sour).

Here is a picture of some cocktails from Museo del Pisco, Arequipa.


Distilleries are not always the best place where to drink cocktails.

Producers are not bartenders.

So, if you want to have a mind-blowing cocktail, our suggestion can only go to the “Museo del Pisco”, in Arequipa. No, this is not a museum, despite the misleading name it’s a BAR. Well, to be more precise, this is THE BAR. The one you want to try!

bartender making a pisco sour in Museo del Pisco bar, Arequipa

Cocktails are not cheap for 26 soles each, but they are worth every single sol! High hygiene standards, bartenders that know their job, their cocktails and a good selection of Piscos and Pisco-based cocktails. The bartenders will guide you through their extensive menu and help you in your choice if needed.

I had the best Pisco Sour ever here!

If you liked this article, you may want to check out our articles about other spirits as well… Such as the Pisco Valley in Chile, or Tequila, Mezcal, or Bourbon. Or how to become a cocktail bartender, and Sydney’s best bars.

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Which is the best way to go from Panamà to Cartagena?

You’re still free to enjoy PANAMA with your vehicle? WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT MISS?
VISIT OUR PANAMA PAGE. See you there! 

Hi! This article is a guide that will help you decide what is your best option to go around the Darien Gap, crossing the border between Panamà and Colombia. Specifically, this is good if you wish to reach Cartagena.
There are so many possibilities that we understand it may be confusing…

If you are a Overlander looking to ship its vehicle as well, you may find our free guide on HOW TO SHIP YOUR VEHICLE PANAMA TO COLOMBIA quite useful as well 🙂

Flying to Cartagena:

Air: low cost companies are Wingo, Win Air and Viva Colombia.
Also: Air Panama, Copa and Avianca.
If you have a dog you need to go via Copa.

Careful in doing your research! We used Skyscanner as usual and it was only showing Copa and Avianca airlines. There are three different airports in Panamà, don’t get confused!

Tocumen airport code PTY and it’s far from the city (20 minute drive with Uber on a Saturday morning, no traffic, but a hour drive by car or even longer on a bus if you go Mon-Fri), plus it includes a 60$ departure tax (!!) in your ticket, making it way more expensive than the flights you may find from Balboa Airport (Wingo).
A Wingo ticket can be 90$ if booked with two weeks in advance, while a Copa ticket is 170$.
Still, Copa allows you to 2x20kg baggage and allows dogs.
Uber to Tocumen is approx. 16$ during the day, while uber to Balboa is 5$.
Either way you can take public transportation, go to a Loteria, metro station or supermarket and buy a metro card – valid for buses as well – for 2$, than recharge it the amount you wish and use it to get to the airport for as cheap as 1$.

Cruising the San Blas on a day-tour from Panamà, then flying to Cartagena:

If you don’t feel like taking a long cruise, you can take one of the many day tours or one day/two nights tours from Panamà to the San Blas, and then back to the city; you can then get a cheap flight to Cartagena de las Indias.
You’ll get picked up from your hotel at 6.00am, will be at the port by 9.00 am and spend the whole day in the San Blas, hopping on and off two or three different islands. Of course this is not the best option if you want to have the real Kuna experience, but it’s a way to chill and enjoy this beautiful paradise spending between 110$-160$.
Some even add a tour of the Panamà Canal and / or Portobelo.
Main activities: relaxing on the beach and sunbathing, snorkeling, eating fresh seafood, again relaxing on a white sandbar or under palm trees…  

Taking a 5 days sail boat to Cartagena through the San Blas Islands:

There is the possibility to sail between Panamà and Cartagena, yes, so you can avoid taking a flight.

Hope you are not keen to seasickness, tho 😉
A smooth sail takes 5 nights. And boats are not cheap, heh.
But let’s talk options!

  • Ave Maria Sailing was the boat available on Thursday for us, so the perfect timing. It also happens to be one of the most reliable, maybe the only one that is not a party boat. Leaves from Portobelo, a lovely village with two forts you shall visit.
    Normal rate is 550$ pp but you can flag it down to 525$.
    Food is included. To contact them directly – email: avemariasailing@gmail.comor call Panamá + 507 608 94802/ Colombia + 57 314 887 3353. It may take days for them to reply as they may be in open waters so allow extra time.
    Alden Offshore 50′ ketch, 8 passengers + 2 crew members.
  • Would you prefer the party boat…? Yes, sounds fun. What doesn’t sound fun is the horror stories I heard and read of about boats where the Captain was constantly drunk or high, couldn’t navigate, the vessel broke down, the route was lost, and people with no expertize (you) had to take control of the situation (and of the boat).
    Plus the Captain took no responsibility in arranging your entrance to Colombia and people got stuck out of the harbor for days because the documents weren’t ready for your entrance. Always be careful about who you book your tour with.
  • There are so many boats to Cartagena that you just have to google them, really… But if you feel too lazy for it, here they are 😉
    The itinerary is the same for all of them: tours leave from Panamà, drive you to the sea with a 4×4 Jeep, then there are 3 days of San Blas Islands tours, with starfishes and turtles to be seen and fresh seafood for lunch or dinner, then the last 34-48 hours are a fast crossing of the open water – a non-stop boat ride to get to Colombia that may give you severe seasickness (bring your tablets!

Taking a 4 days sail boat to Sapzurro through the San Blas, then continue by land:

There is another option: there are boats that will not bring you to Cartagena… But they’ll bring you to Sapzurro, which is the smallest place you can imagine, a dispersed beach with 5 hotels immediately after the border. You could even walk back to Panamà through the La Miel border crossing, if you wish.
The area is still very remote so only a few businesses accept card payments, and there are no banks or ATMs. Be sure to have extra cash when you arrive, USD$ can be exchanged locally to Colombian pesos.
Sapzurro is the permanent departure/arrival point for African QueenSamsara  and San Blas Adventures. Between December and March its common for other smaller sailboats to start or finish trips in this region because of rougher seas between San Blas and Cartagena.
From Sapzurro to Cartagena is an adventure: walk or take a taxi boat (15,000 COP) to Capurganà (slightly bigger village), and from there take a 2 hours boat to Turbo, where the first road starts (!!) or to Necocli. 
There are two boats daily from Capurgana to Necocli, leaving at 8 a.m. and 10 a.m., and taking around 1.5 hours. At 75,000 COP (plus a 2,000 COP dock fee) it’s pricier than the Turbo boat, but by all accounts it’s a much more comfortable ride and Turbo has a really bad reputation about robberies and being a cartel city, so I would avoid that. Then a DIRECT bus from Necocli to Cartagena with the company Rapido Ochoa (9hours, 100.000 COP, via Monteria). The whole trip can be booked at hotels and travel agencies in Capurgana, or the bus ticket can be bought at the harbor in Necocli. The bus is modern and comfortable (toilets, wifi, individual electric plugs) and you can make all the trip from Capurganà to Cartagena in one day, if you leave early!

Remember: whatever your decision will be, it’s going to be an AMAZING experience! 😀

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Updated May 2019 –

The Darién Gap. A stretch of land between the countries of Panamà and Colombia, with 90 km of unpassable jungle, and no road in between.
The only way you have to go on with your journey is to go AROUND it.
Years ago there used to be a convenient ferry traveling this route, but it got cancelled so your only option is to depart from your vehicle and travel separately.
Only exception is if you are traveling with a motorbike or bicycle, then you can ship them with a flight or cross with the Stalhratte boat, depending on its itinerary (right now it’s in Cuba for example, so as of April 2019 not an option, but it keeps changing location so my tip is to contact the Captain directly and enquire). Our agent also told us there have been problems with motorbikes recently, not allowed anymore to enter Colombia via sea, so you shall check this out.

What are your options for shipping a vehicle from Panamà to Colombia?

  • Container shipping: this is the most reliable and secure way. There are both fast shipping (takes 1-2 days) and slow shipping (takes 3 weeks) and the difference in prices is not something I would consider worth it.
    The only problem is you have to fit the container. A 40′ high cube container is: 12 meter length x 2.30 width x 2.55 high door clearance. Inside the height is 2.66 meters.
    There is a fast shipping each week and it’s quite easy to share the expenses with another vehicle and possibly also one or two motorbikes.
    Once you are done with your paperwork, you can leave the country.
  • Flat rack container: in case you don’t fit a container, this is an open-air container. No problems with your heigh and width, but as it’s slightly more expensive than container shipping, you may have more difficulties in finding a container buddy with whom to share it. With Tea and Seaboad, total expenses for one would be approx. 3500$.
  • Many other sizes may be available depending on the company. You’ll find an example from Seaboard Marine HERE.
  • Ro-ro: roll on, roll off. This is the option most people take when their vehicle can’t fit a container. It is also one of the most unsecure ways, as you’ll have to leave your vehicle unattended at the port for days, and it will be left there with the keys inside. Lots of reports of vehicles being broken into and robbed, and no one takes responsibility for this as they’ll make you sign a paper that states that the vehicle is empty and has nothing of value in it. The boat leaves once a month, so you better start planning this ahead of time. You are required to stay in Panamà until the boat has left, as dates changes very often, even if you already finished your paperwork and your vehicle has been consigned to the port authority. The shipping takes 1-2 days. Quote below.
  • Lo-lo: lift on, lift off. Basically same as ro-ro, with the difference that your vehicle will be moved with a crane so it could lead to body damages.
Flat Rack Container

To help you out with the incredible paperwork job necessary, you can use an agent (not mandatory) or if you speak good Spanish and feel confident enough, you can do things yourself.
This page may be of great help in both cases… There are definitely things you shall know before adventuring into this process!


First thing you shall do, one or two months in advance, is to check your vehicle dimensions and weight.
For the first one, Google your year, make and model followed by “dimensions” and you’ll have it. Always remember to add a few cm in case you modified it – we had to add 7 cm height due to the roof windows and solar panels – and as for the weight, just keep an eye open in any highway that requires a truck weight check and politely ask the officers to weight you as well; always consider if you are full/empty of fuel and water.

Second, check if you can fit a container or not. If you can’t, your best option is ro-ro.
If you fit a container, there is an amazing website that can help you find other travelers interested in sharing it with you: Container Buddies.
I know, you’re not sure about your travel plans yet, you hate to travel with a fixed date planned ahead, etc. Well, Container Buddies thought about it as well. You can make your application with flexible dates (example from Panamà to Cartagena de las Indias from 1st May to 15th June) and all the website will do is to give you names and emails of other people whose dates have a match with yours.
If you have to ship ro-ro you are more independent but, as I wrote, there is only one shipping a month, so you still have to plan ahead. Check the date and be aware that you want to have it booked 15 days in advance, as it fills out quickly.
If you can, secure your vehicle against break-ins: especially with ro-ro, add additional locks to the windows (even the roof ones) and build a wall between the living space and the driver’s space. Be sure your valuables come with you on your flight or sail.

Third, decide if you want to do it with an agent or not and start enquiring about quotes.
The most common agents going Panamà to Colombia are:
Tea Kalmbach: she lives in Argentina so she won’t be physically there to help you. She works with Seabord Marine Company and will send you instructions and documents via email. It’s the cheapest and therefore the most popular one among travelers, and it’s the one we contacted and shipped with. Contacts: what’s up +5492267520418, email
Boris: there are many people happy with him, and many that aren’t. We checked all the reviews on the Panamerican Travelers Association group, and he has ¼ of Tea’s reviews. He works with the Evergreen Company.
IVSS: we have friends who have shipped with IVSS and ro-ro in our same dates: they were impressed with how professional they were. They are the most expensive, but they provide the most comprehensive service.

The best time to start asking for quotes is 1 – 1,5 months before your departure.
We started this process in Guatemala and gave our final confirmation to the quote 15 days in advance, once we had found a Container Buddy and were both sure about the shipment date, and we were in Costa Rica at that time. Remember that you have to be there a few days in advance: in order to ship on Saturday, the last day to do the DIJ inspection in Panamà was Tuesday for us.

Fourth, when you cross the border into Panamà, the aduana will complete a form for the entry of the car (TVIP). Please check that all information in it are correct and if you find a mistake ask for a new form. Do NOT accept any corrections. This may turn into a problem when shipping.

Once you found a Container Buddy, IF your agent confirms that you have enough room for it, you may add a motorbike to reduce the costs: to find one, alongside with the website Container Buddies, you can ask in the Horizons Unlimited FB page, Panamerican travelers Association FB group and Panamerica Riders Association FB group.
Your agent will also let you know if someone else books for the same date as you, so he/she will give you better chances to find a match.
In case you are doing everything by yourself, just consider 10 cm allowance between the vehicles, and between them and the container walls.

Here is an example of a container quote.

This comes from Tea, with Seaboard Marine, and also explains the procedure and what you need; I updated the version below because we found out a few small things had changed:

Sailing: weekly, each Saturday with 1 estimated day of transit time. In Cartagena you start Monday with the import formalities and this takes 1,5 days.

Export Panama: you need 2 days. One in Panama city for a vehicle inspection (from Monday to Friday at 6 am) and a 2nd day in Colon, 80 kms from Panama city, for Aduana and Manzanillo Port. Once ready you can leave Panama by sailboat or by air (more info below). 

Documents: passport, title, insurance you buy at the Panama border for USD 27 and the TVIP. Please check this form and if you find a mistake ask for a new one.

Cost sharing a 40′ container between two vehicles: USD 875.00 (to be paid for the export in Panama in USD, cash only, at a CitiBank branch) + USD 79.00 (to be paid in USD, cash only, at Manzanillo Port).
We offer the same price for the high cube container than for the standard. The Carrier, Seaboard Marine, applies the same rate and so do we. In Cartagena the port charge USD 430 for the container and if they are 2 cars each one pay 50% = USD 215.00.

Cost sharing a 40’ container between two vehicles and one motorbike: USD 785.00 (to be paid for the export in Panama in USD, cash only, at a CitiBank branch) + USD 79.00 (to be paid in USD, cash only, at Manzanillo Port). In Cartagena, if they are 2 cars + 01 bike the vehicles pay 40% each one and the bike 20%, so vehicle USD 172.00 each one and bike USD 86,00.

Ps. Important notes for the shipping below!

Puente Atlantico

Here is an example of a Ro-Ro confirmation with agent IVSS:

Vessel/Voyage: Tongala/DB908-TOL
ETD: 24/04
ETA: 25/04
POL:  Manzanillo, Panama
POD: Cartagena, Colombia
Vehicle Make / Model / Year: Fiat Ducato 2008
Vehicle Dimensions: L 5.5m, W 2.1m, H 2.75m
CBM: 31.76
Weight: 3,500

Please find costs payable below:

Fast Ship 2/3 days – Panama – Cartagena
Shipping charge (inc BAF,LSL,BL)          $1,301
Panama THC                                             $  100
Booking & Doc Fee                                  $  200
Local Fees Panama (Estimate)              $   79 (paid at the port)
Local helper for clearing (in person)    $   75

Import Fees paid direct in Colombia  $656

Would you prefer to be invoiced in USD, euros or pounds?
Would you like marine cargo insurance? Please let me know the vehicle value and level of cover (0.9% or 0.6%).

Insurance: If requested, insurance will be charged as a % of the insured value (vehicle value + shipping costs). We are able to offer either All risks – excluding chips, dents, scratches and marring (0.9%) & Total Loss (0.6%) on this route.

Next Steps:Around 10 days prior to sailing, we will reconfirm the sailing date and send you instructions for the port and local procedures.
We will invoice you, payment is required prior to delivery of the vehicle to the port.
Kind Regards, 
Nicole Cardozo, IVSS  –  International Vehicle Shipping Services
UK T: +44 (0) 208 144 4161, US T: +1 347-741-8804, F: +44 (0) 207 183 6774. Web:
Office Hours: Monday – Friday 9am to 5pm (Time Zone United Kingdom) . Closed on Public Holidays & Weekends

All prices are subject to change, and exchange rate fluctuations. Any quotation is calculated as per the dimensions declared to us, cargo may be measured at the port and the measured dimensions payable, penalty fees may apply. Local costs and port fees are provided as estimates and are not contractual. Cargo is subject to the shipping lines acceptance. Sailing dates, arrival and departure dates may be changed or cancelled without notice or liability.

Cargo is to be presented for shipment in a condition free of any oil, soil, dust, grease or other contamination. This includes all surfaces both internal and external.

Example of ro-ro boat

Very important notes for both Container and Ro-Ro:

  1. In Colombia you pay all in Colombian Pesos and the port charges for the container, and not to each one of you. This means that one of you collects the money to pay and its important in Colombia to process this all together, because the Container WILL NOT BE OPENED IF ALL THE OWNERS ARE NOT PRESENT.
    So be sure once you search for your container buddies, that you all have the same plans: YOU ALL SAIL, OR YOU ALL FLY. Even if Captains assure you’re going to be in Cartagena in a certain date, don’t trust them: you can’t know. It depends on the winds and on the tides.
    1. You need to use long pants and shoes at the port (no short and sandals) in both the DIJ inspection part 2 in Panamà AND the port in Cartagena, where they also request an international health or life insurance. This in case something happen to you when you pick up the vehicle.

You’re still free to enjoy PANAMA with your vehicle! WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT MISS?
VISIT OUR PANAMA PAGE. See you there! 

BOOKING: what do you need and which Carrier to choose?

For the booking you need to have the following information:

– name, nationality and passport number of the owner of the vehicle
– vehicle: make, model, year, colour, plate number, vin number
– dimension and weight

Communicate all these to your agent or write them to your Carrier directly if you’re doing things on your own.

If you register on your Carrier’s website you can check:

  • Shipment Tracking
  • Create and View Bookings
  • Preview Bill of Ladings
  • Print Electronic Originals
  • Real-Time Sailing Schedules

Example: to obtain your personal identification code.

Confirm the quote and let’s start the fun part!

You already know we opted for Seaboard. Wondering why?

Seaboard containers

We shipped via Seaboard because it’s the only company that work in all countries with own offices (so you don’t have to go through an agent in Cartagena, who would apply different rates to Overlanders estimating how much money you have (for example= if they see that your car is a 2015, or a 2017 instead of a 2002 or 1993, they charge higher for new vehicles or also depending on the make).

This could never happen with Seaboard that charge what their head office instruct them to do. It’s an American company and works since 30 years from USA to Central America and Caribbean with its own ship…
They do not rent space to other carriers, so we know that their transit is direct and you would not have any surprise that your cargo goes via transhipment to Cartagena. Ther are carriers and also agents that sale you a price and ship with a 3rd party for low-cost with transhipment.  Anyway, all this information to let you know who is the carrier and the agent also would be in contact with them and you too.

I just arrived in Panamà, where should I stay with my vehicle?


Go to sleep behind the Radisson Hotel (it’s on Ioverlander App, under the name “Balboa Park”), it’s a dead end road and you can see the ships sailing on the Panamà Canal. It’s a 10-15 minute drive from here to the DIJ inspection, but leave early because traffic can get intense.
Be sure you stop to take a free shower in a Terpel Va&Ven on the way here, and you refill on water and supplies as there are no services around this area. Still, there is fast free wifi and you may encounter many other Overlanders there, especially if close to the Roro shipping date.


Okay everything is been decided for the vehicle… But what about us?

You have many options!
Consider that you’ll spend a few days without your vehicle, first of all, so no home on wheels.
Hostels and food are cheaper in Cartagena, that is also a much prettier city, yet if you ship via Ro-ro you are forced to wait in Panamà until your boat has departed, leaving you with a last minute booking option only. If you are shipping via container, once you left in Colon Port you are free to go.

Remember, it’s important to arrange with whom you share the container to be in Cartagena all together to start the procedure, because the Port charges for the container their fees and not for vehicle and the container will open ONLY if all the owners are present.

Top Tip for Overlanders
: Flying means you are sure you will be in Cartagena as soon as possible to start your paperwork nightmare once again to get your vehicle back. Still, it also mean you’ll have to book a few night accommodation.
Considering that you may have to leave your vehicle at the port on Wednesday, on Thursday you start the boat tour, it means you’ll be in Cartagena at best on Tuesday. That’s why if you have a vehicle shipped via container, your container buddies have to agree on it… You’ll be in open waters, with no possibility to receive phone calls or texts, no chances to inform them if you’ll be late, and in the meantime they’ll be there, waiting for your return to get their vehicle, and PAYING FOR MORE NIGHTS and DELAYING THEIR PLANS without having a clue of what is going on with you and the boat.

SO, FLIGHT OR SAIL? Want to know your options better? CLIC HERE.

Paradise on Earth

DIJ Vehicle Inspection in Panama City (1st export Step)

You need your documents (original) and 2 copies for the inspection.

Passport, title, temporary import permit (you receive it at the border from custom).
From the title make copies both sides. Make 6 because you need 4 in Colon.

Last day to do it: Tuesday, but I recommend you to go at least one day before, in case something goes wrong. You can do it 8 days before you enter the vehicle at Manzanillo Port. Only from Monday-Friday.

It’s important to start early in the morning because they only check 25 vehicles per day. We were there at 5.30am and were number 10. Number 20 was at 7.00am. But people keep getting there earlier and earlier.

Once there advice you are there for the inspection! Open the motor because it must be cold. You have to queue with the others and register your name and last name, then you will receive your number and you’ll have to wait. At 7am one inspector will come and check the motor number against the number on the title. He will ask to see your passport, TVIP. This takes few minutes. It’s more the time you invest waiting.
They work with Interpol and check if your vehicle is a stolen one.

Once done they will tell you to pick up the inspection certificate at 2pm. Again, it is valid for 8 days and need to be valid only until checked in into the port in Colòn. 

With this document, you’ll have the authorization to leave Panamà.

When you pick it up in the afternoon please don’t use shorts … They request bermudas or long pants. They will ask your carrier (example: Seaboard Marine) and sailing Port (Manzanillo).

Direction and coordinates for the DIJ INSPECTION, EARLY MORNING: 8.966387,-79.544905

Check the place on googlemaps:

There’s no sign and it’s a gravel parking lot with a short building in it, with a ladder and a metal gate. If your rig is too big, you won’t fit into the gate, so park on the road in front of it.
The area is not the best, it’s quite a dangerous zone so it is NOT recommended to sleep there overnight.

Direction and coordinates for COLLECTING THE CERTIFICATE, EARLY AFTERNOON 2.00PM: 8.575550, -79.324332

Please park your vehicle where you did the DIJ inspection in the morning and walk there, it’s safer!
Bring here same documents as in the morning and original passport. You will be required to sign a form.

Relax… It will be over soon.


Time to pay for your container fees or Ro-Ro.
The quote obviously varies, depending on your volume.
In our case we got the bank account number by our agent, in your case just follow the carriers instructions. We could pay Seabord Marine only in cash and in USD, which is weird considering that we could only pay in a Citybank branch so I really can’t understand why a bank would not accept a credit card payment, but whatever…
We had time until the day after the consignment of the vehicle in Manzanillo but conditions on this may vary so check it out with your agent or carrier. There are bank branches in Colòn as well but my suggestion is to take care of this when you’re in Panamà, so you’ll still have your vehicle to drive around.
Send a picture of the copy of the receipt to your agent or carrier (must be legible).

Colòn: carriers office // aduana // RoRo Section from Manzanillo Port (2nd and last Export step)

Documents you need: passport, title, insurance, vehicle inspection =DIJ, TVIP + Bill of Lading.

Original and from all 4 copies, 5 for the Bill of Lading.
The Bill of Lading will be provided by your agent or, if you are doing things on your own, by the carrier, will have a booking number on it and it acknowledges receipt of cargo for shipment.

Don’t sleep overnight in Colòn, it’s a dangerous city. Better to sleep in Portobelo or Panamà and get there in the morning.

Steps to process the entry to Port from your vehicle:

a) go to Colon Manzanillo Port (N 9.36390° W 79.87810° ), to the Carriers office to pick up your bill of lading (if you did it yourself) or to have it signed and stamped if you have an agent. The guy at the port’s entrance will ask you your Carrier and point you in the right direction. Some locations are on Ioverlander.
Examples: Seabord Marine (opens at 8 am). Evergreen offices are outside of the Port, location on Ioverlander as well.

b) go to the Aduana (opens 9 am). It’s at the GPS coordinates N 9.34607° W79.87827°. When you entered the country you got two stamps on your passport: one from Immigration, which represents your entry to the country, and the second one from the Aduana, for your vehicle entry; it means your vehicle is linked to your passport and you can’t leave the country without your vehicle. With this procedure, they stamp that your vehicle is exiting the country and so you are good to leave without it.

c) go to the Ro-Ro Section from Manzanillo Port; the entrance is super hidden as you have to park outside first and process all the paperwork at the different offices before you can drive in with your vehicle. GPS N 9.22360°, W79.524434°.
To enter you’ll take the blue gate with the pedestrian walkway, give your passport in in return for a visitor badge. Then once inside you’ll visit all four offices, everyone will ask you for copies and the second one will be for the port fees 79$.

Only then the driver can enter the car at the Valet Parking from the ro ro section and personal from Port that only work with overland vehicles and 0km vehicles from companies will receive your car. They check it, take pictures (this together with narcotic), have dogs smell around searching for drugs.
The painful part is that you’ll have to handle them your keys.
Once done take your luggage and go back to the fourth window, where they will call your name to give you the Customer Receipt Manzanillo Intl Terminal. If your car has special instruction to start explain it to the guards and let written instructions. Personal from Port load the container, nobody can enter the Port and this works, apparently there have been no robberies in the past years looking at both Ioverlander and the PanAm group. Our agent stated that it’s always the same dependent workers that handle weekly the vehicles; there are cameras all around the place.

Note to all vehicles: import and export goes through the ro ro section and this area handles all vehicles for container shipments, flat rack shipments and ro ro. The Ro Ro name is only because you enter this special area meant to be only for vehicles shipping.

Note for after the delivery of the vehicle: check your email in the next days. The carrier will send an Arrival Notification – Aviso de llegada de mercancia – once ready, with the Bill of Lading for Cartagena.
Also, you’ll need to complete an online form for port&carrier in Cartagena called “Formato de Informacion Tributaria no residents en Colombia”. It will be sent to you by the carrier OR your agent. Fill it, send it back alongside with your passport copy.

How to get back to Panamà:

Take a taxi to Colòn Bus Terminal, bargain the price, shall be 8$ in total.
Then from there take the first bus leaving for Panamà, cost is 3,5$ and takes 1.5 – 2 hours, it’s a comfortable air-conditioned bus with movies going on all the time.
In Panamà the last stop is Albrook Terminal. You can get down there and take the metro (2$ for a metrocard at the automatic vending machines, plus a recharge, as much as you feel like) or call a uber or a taxi to your destination.

Where to stay in Panamà?

We suggest to always bargain if you show up in person. You can flag down the price by avoiding air conditioning or by staying 3 nights.
In Panamà we recommend Norita’s Hostel, we paid 23$ per night for a nice private room with bathroom and air conditioning during the night. It’s also in a convenient location between the new and the old city, so with one hour walk (or a 2$ taxi) you can get pretty much everywhere. It’s located in Avenida Justo Arosemena between Avenue Ecuador and Calle 33 Este, 150 meters from the metro station Loteria. You can also book it from booking, and using this code you’ll get a 10% discount 😉


Cartagena: arrival at the airport

Once you’ll arrive in Cartagena, just before the exit of the “Arrivals” section, there will be an automatic machine telling you the taxi fares. Get a receipt for your destination there.
Then go to the Departures section and withdraw money from one of the ATM machines, it’s important to have the local currency not to get really bad currency rates from the locals.

Cartagena: where to stay?

We stayed in Maos House El Bosque, which is not in the pretty city center but was a 10 minute walk from our Port (this depends on your Carrier tho) so we could do our paperwork easily.  A taxi to downtown would cost us 6$, or 2$ each for the bus.
We paid 42$ for an apartment for 3 nights. You can also book it from, and using this code you’ll get a 10% discount 😉
We were so happy with the owner, she was lovely and super helpful. The position also saved us many taxi rides due to the vicinacy to the port and Seaboard offices.

Cartagena Import – Getting your vehicle back

Remember: at the Port you need to be together to pay port fees and open the container.  Import takes 1 1/2 days. Port charge for the 40 container USD 430.00 in total, 40% each vehicle x 2 + 20% motorbike. They attend you as group!!!

Carriers Address for Seaboard: Barrio El Bosque, Av. Pedro Vélez # 48-14.  Dentro de las instalaciones del terminal marítimo Compas.
Teléfonos: 6722326 / 6722341
Horario de Atención: 08:00 – 11:00 AM / 02:00 – 05:00 PM
Contact: Linda Patricia Bello

Example of Procedure for Importing your shipped vehicle in Cartagena

@ Seabord Marine:
This changes for every single carrier so it’s hard to let you know… Take this as an example of procedure, but some parts will always be the same for everyone (example, DIAN).

1. Go to the Seaboard office (no sign, tiny entrance behind the trees), sign some documents and get their bank coordinates, get a taxi to the closest Citibank, which is HERE. Taxi would be approx 7000colombian pesos, plus 2500pesos for the toll bridge you’ll cross. There you’ll pay the correspondent in colombian pesos of 50 american dollars, CASH ONLY AS USUAL.
Go back to Seaboard marine office to get it stamped (probably it will be in the early afternoon), get the name of the port of unloading: Sociedad portuaria.

2. Go to the DIAN (ADUANA) HERE with copies of bill of lading, the owner of each vechicle fills the form for obtaining a TVIP. You’ll be required to have copies of passport, title, driving license, the stamp of entry to Colombia in your passport, the new bill of lading stamped, Fill a form, go to make copies of everything HERE and then come back to them.

3. Go to Sociedad portuaria HERE. I wish I could tell you you’ll make it to this point in the first day, but it’s hard you will. Every office you go, there’s a long wait. They all close 12pm-2pm for lunch. In case you didn’t make it the first day, go there at 8.00am next morning when they open, and there are some chances you’ll make it through in one day. The correct entrance is the building with glass you see in the picture. Go to the reception on your right, be registered in their system with your passport and get a pass to get inside. Then enter and go to the Service to the Customers office on the right at the 1st floor, just beside an ATM machine exactly HERE. Ask for Mr. Raphael Diaz, fill some forms, he will give you the invoice to pay (guess what? Cash only, colombian pesos).
Pay the invoice, wait for the container to be located and moved to a special spot for inspection.

4. First of all you need to wear a t-shirt and long pants and closed shoes. This part was confusing, because to enter into the port AT THIS STAGE ONLY you need to have a private health insurance, and Tea had told us that the container would not open if all the vehicle’s owners were not there.
We proved this was wrong.
The only person that need to be phisically there at the opening is the one owner who’s name is on the invoice of the container. In our case, Marco. So in case someone already has the insurance, it’s a good thing to make sure the container is under his name, so the others can avoid to pay 25$ for one, if they don’t want to (tho it’s always good to have one).
Get inside the port to open the container with your new fancy helmet and suit, unload the cars, check them and take pictures (self-inspection) of all of them, outside and inside, and VIN number as well.

5. Go to Dian and show the pictures to the officer, he will stamp the temporary import permit and give it to you.

TOP TIP IF YOU ARE A GROUP: as you don’t have to be all there to do the inspection, while the owner alpha makes the inspection, the other members of your container party can go to Dian to collect the TVIP for everyone (including the guy sweating in the Colombian heat doing the inspection).
The inspection owner can send the pictures to the other via What’s up.
– One does the inspection (Marco was told to come at 1pm, lasted until 2.30pm. By 2.00 pm the guy at Dian had the pictures).
– Two are at Dian, which opens at 2.00pm, ready with the pictures. They collected the TVIP for everyone. They then go to make copies of the TVIP in front of Dian.
– The two guys at Dian split. One goes with the copies to make the insurance for EVERYONE in the city center, BETTER IF THE PERSON DOING THIS IS NOT A VEHICLE OWNER AT ALL. Be sure he has copies of title, passport, driving license and tvip of everyone. He must know for how long everyone wants to stay in Colombia and have the money.
The other guy who was at Dian takes the original TVIP and the original BILL OF LADING of EVERYONE back to Sociedad Portuaria.

6. Everyone slowly makes their way back to Sociedad portuaria, where with the pictures, the bills of lading and the tvips they can finally start processing the papers for retrieving the car and exit the port (will take minimum one hour, in the meantime the guys at the insurance will come back). Offices close at 5pm, so you have to be have them done by 4.30 maximum.

7. Get inside the port (t-shirt and long parts required) with your new documents issued and your passport and get your car. For this part, you are not required to have an health insurance or a vehicle insurance. But in order to drive in Colombia, a third party insurance is mandatory, so if you don’t have one is at your own risk… But know that the port won’t stop you.

Other things you shall know:
– The non-owners of the vehicles CAN’T ENTER THE PORT.
They’ll stay in the Sociedad Portuaria waiting for you, with air-conditioning and a bad service on their phone.
– At some point you’ll run out of battery on your phone (all of us were, the bad service drains it quickly). Bring a usb cable and an adapter, they have power sockets at the Sociedad Portuaria. Or a battery pack.
– It will be damned hot. You can wear comfortable clothes and get changed in the toilet just before entering the Port.
– After the third day your vehicle is in the Port, you will be charged a storage fee PER DAY, depending on the size of your vehicle. For our 5.5 mt long van it was 6.5$ a day. The container arrived at 7pm? Counts as a day. There is a Sunday or a National Holiday and offices are closed? Still counts as a day.

Sundays port is open, the offices to get the papers to exit it ARE NOT. Always consider this when deciding when to ship. Avoid Semana Santa and all major holidays. We had 1st of May ahead of us, so if we wouldn’t have made it by 30th April we would have to pay storage fees.

I know, it’s a long procedure, right? Some carriers even take 3-5 days for you to collect the vehicle.
I also read on Ioverlander of a scam with Wallenius (March 2019) saying that they tried to tell the guys that an agent in Cartagena was mandatory, and automatically putting the name of an agent on the bill of lading, which resulted in them losing one day to get it changed in their name. They only paid 350$ like this, instead of the 700$ they first got quoted for!
So watch out and always check your documents, at every single step.

We were people with a container, people with a flat rack, and ro-ro people. This article is the result of all our experiences together.
Hope it helped you! All our vehicles arrived with no damages and in perfect conditions. We were even gifted of strips and chains that got used to keep our vehicles still. You may want to sell them for 100$ and get some money back.

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In case you’re interested to know more about the town of OAXACA and the Oaxaca region, please go to the OAXACA PAGE.

This article has a particular focus on our experience as both tourists AND bartenders visiting different Mezcal Distilleries.

If you’re new to the Mezcal world, don’t worry about it, I will try to help out giving you some basic knowledge.

Where does Mezcal come from and where can it be produced?

Of the over 200 kinds of existent agave plants, only a bunch is fit for Mezcal: the most commonly used are 10, but it can get up to 30 kinds. People are constantly experimenting and improving their recipes, and the percentage of each plant is a well-kept secret.
100% agave Mezcal can be harvested, processed, aged and bottled only in this specific areas:

  1. Oaxaca
  2. Durango
  3. Guerrero
  4. San Luis Potosì
  5. Michoacan
  6. Guanajuato
  7. Tamaulipas
  8. Zacatecas
  9. Puebla
El Jolgorio bottle series, Casa de Cortés

Despite this, 95% of Mezcal comes from Oaxaca region.
So, as you realize, you’re in the right place for the tours!

I have limited time/budget but I still want to have a complex and fulfilling experience. How shall I organize my visit?

It all depends on your budget, time availability, and if you want to have a tourist-focused experience or connoisseur-focused experience.
I’d say that having a vehicle, a week of time, and a 100usd budget can be of great help, but it’s not mandatory.
Your options are:

  • Renting a vehicle from Oaxaca, the city is only 10-30 km away from an incredible number of Palenques. This will give you freedom to explore around the agave fields yourself, freedom to go out of the beaten track and to less touristic distilleries. They will generally give you a much more connoisseur focused tour; just show up and leave a tip at the end of the tour (50 pesos for 2 people will work), they usually accept guests without appointment and are happy to give you free tours (Spanish only, usually).  
    Be sure you go during week-days, as the distilleries will still be open to the public during the weekend (most of them, at least) but won’t be making any Mezcal, so the ovens will be off.
Palenque de Cortés
  • Taking one of the tours offered by the locals in the main plaza or in the various shops. This is the last option, in my opinion, good if you want to have only one day and you want the tourist-focused experience. These tours are pretty much all the same: they will bring you to visit some distilleries (usually one or two), where you’ll be with your group (up to 40 people). They will also obviously bring you to the distilleries that have the best agreement with them, not to the best distilleries in general. Always flag down their initial price, and careful to Gringo prices! A decent one day tour shall be no more than 200-300 pesos. Tours will start at 7.00am picking you up from your hotel, and stopping for half an hour in each place: Santa Marìa del Tule (biggest tree in the world), Teotitlán del Valle (hand-made tapestries), Mitla (archeological site), Hierve el Agua (the only petrified waterfalls in the world).
    Often, tours that go to Mitla and/or Hierve de Agua will also stop at one of Matatlán Mezcal distilleries, usually to the “El Rey de Matatlán”, as it’s on the main carretera and doesn’t involve a detour. Here you’ll be provided some very generous tastings of their liquor after being given a brief tour that showed off their mezcal production process.
Hierve el Agua is an unmissable stop!

I have a vehicle and I’m independent. What is the best place to see the Mezcal production?

The word you’re searching for is PALENQUE. Palenques are primitive distilleries that produce Mezcal. It is typically produced by farmers using a laborious and antiquated method, and it’s a joy for the eyes to assist to the production process.

Yes, being bartenders we have a special focus on this, so we went to visit different Palenques, and it was one of the best experiences ever! I think learning about this spirit is a MUST for who wants to understand deeply the local culture.
Mezcal is Oaxaca, Oaxaca is Mezcal.
There’s no way you can say you understood Oaxaca true nature without a visit to the distilleries and a chat with the local farmers. Exactly like there’s no way you can call yourself a Mezcal connoisseur without ever stepping into a Palenque.

To really get a more intimate understanding of the liquor, a journey of about 45 minutes outside of Oaxaca city, to the village of Santiago de Matatlán, is recommended. This is the world capital of Mezcal, there are dozens of mezcal factories in this area, several of which will offer a complimentary tour and plentiful tastings of both mezcal and crema de mezcals.

How do I taste Mezcal? I don’t want to look like a noob…

Mezcal in Oaxaca is typically drunk straight and at room temperature. It’s sipped rather than shot, and to use salt & lime would be an insult. Sometimes the mezcal is served with sour orange slices and sal de gusano (a powder mixture of salt, spices, and ground up worms that is actually much more palatable than it sounds). 

What are the differences between Mezcals? I never tried it, will I like it?

Mezcal is similar to Tequila in that it is made from the agave plant, but Mezcal is more complex, both in terms of taste and production.
This is why it’s so hard to know if you’ll like it: it may differ A LOT.
Brand, aging, kind of Agave used, kind of soil, production process are all things that will make a difference.
Many different types of Agave are used for Mezcal, whereas Tequila is actually a type of Mezcal that only uses Blue Agave Tequilana Weber. Additionally, Mezcal’s underground roasting process gives it a unique smoky flavor, so if you already like peated Scotch Whiskey, this may help.

Agave de Cortes, from Joven (not aged) to Extra Anejo (very aged)

If you want to have an easy one to swallow, go for an añejo (aged): thanks to one year in a barrel, the taste will change and make it smoother (soave). If you like to feel the Maguey, and don’t mind dry spirits, go for a Joven (young, no aging). In case you want to stay in between, go for a Reposado (aged 3 months – 1 year, usually comes with a gusano worm chilling in the bottle).

Which are the best Palenques for tasting?

While the El Rey de Matatlán is a good option if you take a tour, for independent visiting I would recommend La Ofrenda and Casa Cortés.

My suggestion is to go to La Ofrenda first, on the way to Hierve el Agua, and to ask to taste different Mezcals that comes from different Magueys (Agave).

Once you’re confident with the differences, go to Casa Cortés and ask to try their line of bottles called “Nuestra Soledad”. This is because these bottles are all made out of 100% Maguey Espadin, so they all come from the same plant. They even use exactly the same production process. The only difference among them is where the Agave comes from: Matatlán itself, Lachiguì, El Jutla, Zoquitlàn, etc. You’ll realize that they all taste quite different; this is due to the different climate of the locations: a desert will have dry soil, and the absence of water will make the plant’s juice more dense and sweet, while a place closer to the sea will add a salty tone to the drink, and a tropical river passing nearby will make the Mezcal grassy and will give a herbal hint.

Nuestra Soledad, Casa Cortés

How does the production process work?

  • The process begins by harvesting the plants, which can weight 40 kg each, extracting the piña (heart) and cooking them for 3 to 5 days, depending on the kind of Agave; it can get up to 10 days during rainy season. They get cooked into pit ovens, whch are earthen mounds over pits of hot rocks, and this underground roasting gives mescal its intense and distinctive smoky flavor.
  • They are crushed and mashed by a stone wheel turned by a horse and then left to ferment in large vats or barrels with water added, allowing it to ferment for at least 3 days. The mash is ready when it creates a nice even layer of film on top, and you can hear it boiling underneath it.
  • The liquid is distilled in clay or copper pots alambique. It is distilled twice, and head and tail get cut off; the tail is often reused, sometimes adding a part of it to the new batch, sometimes using it as fertilizer for the Maguey, sometimes it gets added to the oven with the Piñas to increase the smoky flavor, sometimes it gets used to make Cremas de Maguey (which have a lower alcohol content than Mezcal).
  • The spirit can now be aged (if you fancy it), in case it’s a Reposado with gusano, the worms will be added directly to the barrel.   

– – –

This is everything for the Mezcal!
Please remember to check out the OAXACA page as well to learn more about our experience through the region and all the places you can explore while visiting the Palenques.

If you want to compare Mezcal with other Mexican spirits, please check out the article about TEQUILA, and the one of ESTADO DEL MEXICO, where I explain about Pulque.

If you enjoyed this article, feel free to subscribe to this blog and to all my social networks:
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If you want to follow our adventures in the right order, please continue to the CHIAPAS section. See you there! 😀

Mezcal infused with local herbs
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In case you’re interested to know more about the town of TEQUILA and the Jalisco region, please go to the JALISCO PAGE.

This article has a particular focus on our experience as both tourists AND Tequila connoisseurs visiting different Tequila Distilleries.

If you’re new to the Tequila world, don’t worry about it, I will try to help out giving you some basic knowledge.

  • Where does Tequila come from and where can it be produced?

Of the over 200 kinds of existent agave plants, only ONE is fit for Tequila: The Agave Azul Tequilana Weber.
100% agave Tequila can be harvested, processed, aged and bottled only in this specific areas (Appellation of Origin Tequila DOT):

  1. All of Jalisco state
  2. 8 Municipalities of Nayarit
  3. 30 Municipalities of Michoacan
  4. 7 Municipalities of Guanajuato
  5. 11 Municipalities of Tamaulipas

Furthermore, there are many other regulations (NOM) about the process that must be followed in order to name a spirit “Tequila”, that would make this topic super long and boring, so for now I’ll just stop here. Just know that every single step of the production is strictly regulated and controlled.
So, as you realize, you’re in the right place for making your tours! 👍👍

  • I have limited time/budget but I still want to have a complex and fulfilling experience. How shall I organize my visit?

It all depends on your budget, time availability, and if you want to have a tourist-focused experience, tasting-focused experience, or connoisseur-focused experience.
I’d say that having a vehicle, a week of time, and a 300usd budget can be of great help, but it’s not mandatory.
Your options are:

  1. Renting a vehicle from Guadalajara, the city is only 60 km away. This will give you freedom to explore around the agave fields yourself, freedom to go out of the beaten track and to less touristic distilleries. 
  2. Boarding the Tequila train (yes, they do exist!) to reach Tequila from Guadalajara. There are different packages offered by Jose Cuervo and by Herradura, prices are from 100usd and there will be tastings involved. Only available during weekends.
  3. Taking one of the tours offered by the locals in the main plaza. This is the last option, in my opinion, good if you want to have only one day and you want the tourist-focused experience. These tours are pretty much all the same: they will bring you to the agave fields to take pictures, to visit some distilleries (but beware, you may find yourself with many other bus tours in the same distillery as they all go to the same ones, so you may have 80 people in your tour!). There are a few that offer multi-day tours, which are a better choice, but they will still bring you to the distilleries that have the best agreement with them, not to the best distilleries in general. Always flag down their initial price, and careful to Gringo prices!
  4. You can’t avoid the tourist trap taking an organized tour with an agent, no matter what they say; a good option to limit this uncomfortable feeling can be to go during the side-seasons (spring and autumn, as summer is way too hot for this) or to take a tour in English, as most of the tourists are Mexicans.
    In some distilleries, tours in Spanish can have 50+ people against the 15+ of an English tour!
  5. Lots of distilleries are at walking distance, and Tequila is a small place, after all. Probably the easiest way, hassle-free, is to show up and book for the next tour available. First tour 10am, last tour 3pm. Big distilleries have a Spanish tour each hour, and an English one every two, and if you’re waiting for a tour in Jose Cuervo, Casa Sauza, or any other distillery in downtown, you may want to kill the gap time by visiting some of the museums, like the Tequila Museum (30 pesos), Los Abuelos (owned by Fortaleza), or shopping around the different distilleries tiendas for souvenirs (wait for the bottles, you want to do the tasting first!).
  6. A few distilleries offer a more intimate, less crowded option: taking a tour with them may be by appointment only. And they will generally give you a much more connoisseur focused tour; some of them may be interested in knowing your background knowledge to adapt the tour to your level. Fortaleza, for example, offers an amazing 3 hours tour (the most complete we took!) for 25usd a person, but if you work in the industry (bartender, bar manager, brand ambassador, etc) you’ll very likely to get it for free!
    Some others, like Cascahuìn, may accept EXCLUSIVELY people from the industry, and these small realities are likely to do tours for free (don’t forget to leave a tip tho!). Of course if you go to big companies like Orendain or José Cuervo, don’t expect to have it for cheap, the higher the tour level, the more expensive it will get.
  • I have a vehicle and I’m independent. What is the best route to see the Agave fields?

In my travels through tequila country, it was the agave fields that truly amazed me and have led to the personal fascination I have for tequila. The landscape, the plant and the labor that each jimador puts into growing and harvesting agave are worthy of tremendous respect. 

I have to encourage every tequila lover (or even passive admirers) to travel to the tequila fields at some point in their lifetime. It will give you a new respect for the drink and it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the real culture of tequila.

If you’re independent and can drive your own vehicle (or are willing to rent one), the best route in my opinion was to go to Amatitàn and from there to follow the signs for “Paisaje Agavero”, that will make you drive through some flat fields at the beginning – Tequilera Tres Agaves – and later through perched hills. Many small villages are surrounded by agave fields in this route, the biggest one being Chome; there are also one amazing lookout on agave fields, and more than one on the Grande de Santiago River and on the Dam of the Hidroeléctrica Rios Santiago Lerma.

This road will give you the chance to meet locals genuinely curious to have a chat with you, as they never see tourists around the area.

On the way back, briefly stop at the former distillery (now a community center) Hacienda Santa Ana. It is a piece of history of the region, and has signs that explain the story of it.

Another amazing detour can be the Tequila volcano. It is what gives the soil such a rich mineral level, and is therefore an important element of the Tequila production. On a clear day, you’ll get a nice view of the Tequila valley! Also, the volcano is venerated by the locals like a Goddess, and is represented in different ways in lots of murals around downtown.  

  • I now start to understand that there’s an incredible hard-work that it takes to produce Tequila.
    But which are the differences between a traditional process and a modern one?

Maybe Tequila is the most underestimated spirit in the world (most people think it’s only good for shots and get wasted… there’s so much more to it!!), even myself, before starting my bartending career I always assumed it was something easy to make, as I could find it in the Italian market for quite a cheap price.

Here I’ll explain a traditional process, and I’ll put a note on the side explaining what’s changed with modern technologies.

 AGAVE: It takes the Agave 8 years to grow and mature before they are harvested. These mature agave plants can grow to be very large. On average, each plant can produce about 8 or 9 bottles of tequila. It takes a specially trained “jimador” to harvest these giant blue agave plants, with their dangerously sharp points, it can cause injury if you’re not careful. A good jimador can harvest 200 Agaves in a day.
New: the regulations wants the Agave to be harvested not before 7 years. In reality, the high demand for Tequila – who boomed in the past years – is forcing more than a few to harvest after 5,5 years; for the rest, everything is still harvested by hand. Introduction of the axe as tool.

COOKING: Agaves are slowly cooked for 36 hours – 3 days in a very old stone oven or, even better, in a fireplace specifically designed for it, at slow fire. Agaves are careful loaded by hand, and then the door is sealed shut (in case of the oven, sometime using a combination of mud and dry platano leaves), and steam is injected into the oven.
As the agaves slowly cook, starches inside the agaves turn into sugars, and deep caramelization happens best when you slow down and use the old traditional way.
Once the agaves are cooked, they must cool down. It takes another 24 hours for them to be at a temperature where they can be hand-removed from the oven, and advance to the next stage in the process. New: Agaves are cooked at high temperatures (up to 96°C) to accelerate the process and cook for 24 hrs. They get loaded by a machine or tractor into massive ovens, with double the capacity (30 tons instead of 14 tons) of the old ones; every modern distillery has 15-25 ovens, against the 2-3 of the old distilleries. 

CRUSHING: the tequila is 100% stone crushed in the traditional process. Using a “tahona” (a large round 2-ton volcanic stone) pulled by an electric tractor (which took the place of mules) all of the agave fibers are crushed in a stone pit. In this step the sugars are separated from the fibers of the plant so that the fermentation can fully occur (pitchfork in action!). Using a tahona is considered “inefficient” by modern standards. It takes longer, and still leaves some sugar behind. Plus, it takes 3 hours to crush 2 tons.
New: extracting machines. See pictures.

FERMENTATION is done in wood open-air tanks. Using natural yeast that eats the sugars, and produce alcohol. Once again, no shortcuts are taken. It may take longer, but the results speak for themselves.
It takes about 4 days before the yeast consumes all of the sugar. When fermentation is complete, the mash used to be carried in buckets to the other side of the room where it could be distilled.
New: adds of other sugars to this process and of yeast-accelerating chemicals. It then gets pumped to the distillation tanks.

DISTILLATION twice in traditional copper pot stills. The first time through the still the product takes the name of “ordinario”, which is approximately 20% alcohol by volume. This ordinario is collected in a stainless steel tank, and then it is sent through the still one more time. The second pass is when ordinario is turned into tequila. At this stage the tequila is about 46% alcohol.
New: Many tequila brands will distill to 55% or 60% because it is cheaper to store. Distilling “close to proof” helps to preserve as much of the agave flavor as possible.

AGING: small batches, to get the best quality.
New: The casks have to be 200L max for anejo and extra anejo, but the reposado ones have massive tanks. Barrels gets reused for over 20 years to get the maximum out of them.

BOTTLING: all the bottles were hand-blown. As a result, each one is a tiny bit different. Some still make bottles the way they were made 150 years ago as well. Tequila is hand bottled, capped, labeled, and packed in cases for shipment.
New: bottling stations set up inside of the distilleries, bottles not hand-blown in most cases.

  • Which distilleries would you recommend to pick?

My recommendation is to visit one of each kind.
One that can show you modern machineries, and one that still use the traditional methods, without technology but simply using hard work and techniques that have been inherited generation past generation, for over two centuries.
In this way, you can understand the difference.

José Cuervo is probably your best bet for the modern one. I mean, you really can’t skip it as La Rojeña®, the flagship distillery of Cuervo, is the oldest in Latin America, and the English tours are not too crowded. Another good point, it’s located super close to the main plaza.
Take your time enjoying a distillery tour with a professional tasting of blanco, reposado and añejo tequilas in the Expert Tequila rooms. Another good point in their favor is that they have the widest variety of tours: from the basic one (at 240 mxp), to the one with chocolate matching in the tasting, to the dinner with local comida matching tequilas, to the Express train, to the “bottle your own Reserva de la Familia Tequila”, and I could go on for ages naming them. From 240 to 2500 mxp, the choice is all yours. Check their website to see which one fancies you 😉

Fortaleza is what I would pick in terms of tradition. It’s a small company, also at walking distance from Tequila downtown. The tour is going to be 3 hours for 500mxp (unless you’re working in the industry) and is by appointment only (no crowds! Check their website). What is so amazing about this? The tour will start from a visit to their distillery, that uses traditional methods. Just to make you understand what we are talking about, Fortaleza produces in a year the same amount of bottles that José Cuervo produces in a day (120.000 bottles)!

Fortaleza, locally known as Los Abuelos, will make you visit their whole property, including an amazing lookout on their agave fields, their grotto (used as a tasting room); the owner of the house and distillery still resides in a house on the top of the hill. Every part of the tour is cared for even in the smallest detail: even the guacamole sauce served with tacos as a snack for the tasting is home-made (and delicious!). The tasting is going to be about their Blanco, Reposado, Anejo, and their still strength (46°, the best way to taste fully the agave flavor).
The tour was supposed to last for 2-3 hours but instead it lasted 4 hours, just to say that they’re flexible with their schedule and that you’ll be the guide number one priority.

Side option: Herradura still have both the old hacienda and the new one.
Still, the old one is not operative and you can’t take pictures inside, but you can have a look at it and get an explanation about how things used to work there. In case you’re really strict with your time schedule and can’t go for Fortaleza. The English tour was 1 hour, 20 people, and 250mxp. Personally, I found our guide to be not as informed as the other guides in other distilleries, but maybe it’s me, because I do technical questions. 🙂

Side option: Cascahuìn for me was another GREAT tour. IF they accept you, go there!! Write an email first to require an appointment to Mr. Tetsu. And here I tasted the BEST Tequila of all of the distilleries I visited, the Ancestral.

  • Which distilleries will give me a touristic experience with over 80 other people in my tour, and which ones will give me a face-to-face explanation, tasting and a more intimate visit?

As a general rule, all tours are going to be more intimate on the more advanced tours (and more expensive ones).
Still, if you’re at basic level:
José Cuervo in English wasn’t too crowded (15 people), while the Spanish one was of 60 people.
Orendain receives people from bus tours and does only English, so it was the most packed one I went (80 people, see the picture below).
Casa Sauza was closed for the holiday period, so I can’t tell about it.
Fortaleza definitely private.
Herradura was 20 people in the English tour.
Cascahuìn (if they accept you), private.
Très Mujeres is another popular one.
Go private, drive with your car, there are literally hundreds of distilleries that will be more than happy to make you have a look for a propina (tip) or for 20 pesos.

  • It is THAT moment during my tour: TASTING. What are the differences between the different Tequila categories?

With close to 1000 Tequila brands to choose from, it helps to know the different types of Tequilas and the categories they fall into.

The main two types of Tequila are first split into two categories, 100% Blue Agave, and Tequila Mixto (Mixed). Mixto Tequila contains a minimum of 51% Blue Agave, and the remaining 49% from other sugars (typically cane sugars). The additional products allowed in Mixto Tequilas are caramel color, oak extract flavoring, glycerin, and sugar based syrup. Mixto Tequila can now be bottled outside of the Tequila territory, including other countries, which started January 6, 2006.

By reading the label on the bottle you can tell which clasification it is in, as all Tequila that is made from 100% Blue Agave will say “Tequila 100% de agave” or “Tequila 100% puro de agave”. All other Mixto Tequila labels will only read “Tequila”.

The above two categories of Tequila are then divided into the following five types of Tequila and are labeled as such:

  1. Tequila Silver – Blanco – Plata – White – Platinum
    This is the Blue Agave spirit in its purest form. It is clear and typically un-aged, where the true flavors and the intensity of the Agave are present, as well as the natural sweetness. It can be bottled directly after distillation, or stored in stainless steel tanks to settle for up to 4 weeks. There are some Blanco products that are aged for up to 2 months to provide a smoother or “Suave” spirit.
  2. Tequila Cristallino

  3. Tequila Cristallino is an aged Tequila, that after the aging process gets put through activated charcoal filters, removing the gold/brown color of it. The goal is to get a Tequila that is surprisingly smooth to swallow. Still, despite this being a new trend (approved in 2018), there are many people in the field not happy with the final result, that is leading to a much neutral spirit in terms of flavors (it’s similar to a Vodka with a hint of agave plant).
  4. Tequila Gold – Joven – Oro
    Gold Tequila is typically a Mixto, where colorants and flavorings have been added prior to bottling. These “young and adulterated” Tequilas are less expensive and used in many bars and restaurants for “mixed drinks”. There are exceptions however, as a “Gold” or “Joven” Tequila can also be the result of blending a Silver Tequila with a Reposado and/or Añejo Tequila, while keeping the 100% Agave classification.
  5. Tequila Reposado 
    A Reposado Tequila is the first stage of “rested and aged”. The Tequila is aged in wood barrels or storage tanks between 2 months and 11 months. The spirit takes on a golden hue and the taste becomes a good balance between the Agave and wood flavors. Many different types of wood barrels are used for aging, with the most common being American or French oak. Some Tequilas are aged in used bourbon / whiskey, cognac, or wine barrels, and will inherit unique flavors from the previous spirit.
    Reposado Tequilas are also referred to as “rested” and “aged”.
  6. Tequila Añejo (extra aged)
    After aging for at least one year, Tequila can then be classified as an “Añejo”. The distillers are required to age Añejo Tequila in barrels that do not exceed 600 liters. This aging process darkens the Tequila to an Amber color, and the flavor can become smoother, richer, and more complex.
    Añejo Tequilas are also referred to as “aged” and “extra-aged”.
  7. Tequila Extra Añejo (ultra aged)
    Any Tequila aged more than 3 years, has to be labelled as an “Extra Añejo”. The distillers must age the spirit in barrels or containers with a maximum capacity of 600 liters. With this extended amount of aging, the Tequila becomes much darker, more of a Mahogany color, and is so rich that it becomes difficult to distinguish it from other quality aged spirits. After the aging process, the alcohol content must be diluted by adding distilled water. These Extra Añejo’s are extremely smooth and complex.
  • So, how do I distinguish a good quality Tequila from a bad one?

There is actually no good and no bad Tequila. The Tequila YOU LIKE THE MOST is the best one.
Obviously there are things that will make a Tequila much more enjoyable to the majority part of the final consumers.
First, the Tequila 100% Agave is the purest one. It is also the one likely not to give you a bad headache the day after, unless you don’t hydrate properly.
Concerning the other categories, some prefer to feel the flavor of the agave plant and will therefore prefer the blanco (especially the Gin drinkers), some others will like something with less flavor but smoother like Cristallino (especially Vodka drinkers), some others will like a mixed, balanced and slightly sweeter flavor as Reposado (Rum drinkers) and some others will prefer something aged or extra aged like Añejo, with a more complex flavor (Whiskey or Whisky drinkers).
Obviously there are exceptions to the rules.

In my humble opinion, I can’t appreciate Cristallino either.
“When you’re aging tequila you are getting the best that you can from the oak — you’re getting the tannins, the colors, the flavors,” explains Carlos Camarena, Master Distiller of El Tesoro. “And after all that you will pass everything through activated charcoal filters? You are shaving everything, not only the color, but the flavors. You [end up] with something that is a very neutral spirit. So my questions is ‘why waste time aging product if then you will shave it?’”

Another distinction comes from the state it is produced. Highlands Tequila don’t taste the same as Tequila Valley ones. Also the soil is different (Tamaulipas doesn’t have a volcanic soil, which leads to a different Agave flavor); plus there are rumors saying that Tamaulipas is been added to the list just because of politic favors between two close friends; for now, I would not try my luck with a Tequila from there.

– – –

This is everything for the Tequila!
Please remember to check out the JALISCO page as well to learn more about our experience through distilleries.

If you’re into Mexican spirits, you shall check out ESTADO DEL MEXICO for Pulque (fermented agave heart)/ and OAXACA region as well, land of MEZCAL (distilled agave with a distintive smoky flavour).

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How to convert a van into a motorhome

If your goal is to travel for cheap and experience contact with nature, did you ever consider to buy a van and to convert it into a motorhome? WE DID! 😀 And here is a guide about how you can do it as well!

Things to consider before to start:

  1. Pick the right vehicle: where will you use it? If you’re looking for city tourism you may want to have something stealth, that you can use to sleep in the cities. If your going in poor countries, you may want something low profile. If you’re going in places with bad road conditions, you may want high clearance. In my opinion, I feel you should avoid a roulotte or something way too big: problems in driving are never a happy feeling, plus the bigger you are, the more vulnerable you’ll get (and the more expensive it will be for fuel efficiency and spare parts).
    Check if what you want to buy is a common vehicle where you’ll be driving (cheaper parts at the wreckers).
  2. Check your country regulations: can you drive it with your licence or do you need a special permit? How are the rules and specifics about registering it as a motorhome?
  3. Google the common issues about that specific model and people’s reviews; watch youtube videos about that model being converted.

Now that you’re ready to start and you bought your vehicle, here are the things we did to convert our. It’s a 2004 Ford E-350 XLT passenger van, a real beauty!


  1. Decide your design. Make a drawing about where the bed will be, where the kitchen, etc. Measure everything and be sure it will fit before to place your online orders.
  2. While you wait for your delivery to arrive, you may want to go to a warehouse shop and pick your wood panels and isolation. Tubes, screws, check you have all the tools for the job. Buy sandpaper and roll films for the windshields.

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  3. Let’s start with the hard job! Remove all inner plastics, back seats and their seatbelts, ceiling and moquette and clean that shit 😀 Remove with sandpaper all the rust (check also under the car and on the roof).

  4. Darken the windshields for more privacy. Good luck because this part sucks.
  5. Cut the isolation panels first. Then use their shape to cut the wood as well. Place all of them in position on the ground, check that everything fits perfectly. If you cut too much, you can fill some holes with some wood filler. Once you’re done, check below the van to see not to damage anything before putting the screws to the panels.

  6. 04. Van construction (29)Put the solar panels on, we bought two Renogy 100W each monocrystalline, for 10amp each per hour (theorical, in practice 6-8 amp hour); we put metal angles on the panels edges (60 cm each) to make the panels stay in a upper position, then used bullons (3 cm) to fix them to the roof for extra safety, and then we put silicone on them to avoid water to get in.
  7. 04. Van construction (37)We cut the roof with a saw saw to create the hole for two rooftop windows with a fan, 40x40cm, we fitted the windows with clay (it’s for isolation) between the metal of the window and the metal of the roof, and then we secured them with screws. Siliconize everything, inside and outside. Before proceeding in putting the ceiling on, the best thing you can do is going on with the walls and hope that a big storm hits you: in this way you’ll know if the roof is dripping water and you’ll fix it before it gets seriously complicated, because once the wood panels are on, it will be hard to understand where to hole is.
  8. So, same procedure as the floor for the walls; put isolation panels first, if the spot is a complicated one and you don’t want to lose space (like for the back doors), put in the holes some wool-rock. Don’t you dare to use the glass one, if inhaled can lead to serious problems and it’s itchy as hell, you don’t want to have it around you while you leave in the van; bear in mind that wool-rock is similar, so be sure the material not to face the inside and to have the paper part of it facing the inside of the van (your living area). It’s not the best material to use because it can catch fire easily, so try to avoid it where possible and don’t put it anywhere close to a place that will involve fire (like a gas stove) or water (it will expand if wet). Place it also around the wheels.

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  9. 04. Van construction (42)Now that you placed your isolation and wood panels on the back doors and walls, we can start putting some things in place. We started with the shower. We screwed the Camplux heating system to the door. Why? Technically it shall be for outside use only. We found convenient to have the possibility to take a shower both indoor and outdoor. First option is good when outside is freezing or you’re not in a suitable place. The second one is good for when you want to stand up while showering, when it’s hot outside and you have privacy, when you don’t want your humidity to get into the van (shower outside means less chances to for moist to develop and less chances for the wood to inflate) and when you are coming back from a muddy trekking. Also good in case you want to water a garden 😀 Please consider the right height for the shower, you’ll need to have space for both gas and water tubes and the door must open and close without hassle. Careful at the back windows when considering the position for the screws; to have them on metal is always better.
  10. 04. Van construction (45)Another thing we decided to put on immediately is the shower plate. This is a fixed size so according to this we are going to know the dimension of the back storage that will be built beside it, and so the length of the bed. Create a hole underneath to let the gray water discharge. Personally we decided not to have a grey wastage tank, this is up to you and to the rules of your country; we take showers inside very rarely and in those occasions we simply do it on the grass. Careful at where you make your hole: your spare tire, your muffler, or something else may be underneath. Siliconize the edges and find a cap for your showers so insects can’t get inside.
  11. We have a chemical toilet. So this one is placed in the shower, and we put two hooks on the wall with a stripe so when we are travelling it doesn’t move around.
  12. If you have a sliding door on the side of your van you’re probably wondering how to put the wood on it. The trick is to use a thin wood, elastic and flexible. Remember to cut the shape leaving a hole for the handle, and for the locker. Slide the door many times and adjust accordingly.
  13. Time to think about the kitchen. This is probably one of the toughest things to do. First, be sure you have everything before starting. Water tank (113 lt, 30 gallons is our), water filters (we got three so they are quite big), water pump, all the different tubes, gas bottle (20 lbs, 9 kg), gas stove. In case you want to do the kitchen like our, we made it with a sliding table so consider the height you need to have this, you want it to almost sit on your legs when you’re sit on the bed. Consider the space necessary for the lateral guides where the table will slide. Create a support for the water tank on the top of your wheel, in order to gain space. Then put everything in place to try to see if everything fits. Then, box it up with wood panels 😀
    Use a sturdy wood, especially for the water tank support and for the table. Before screwing everything, create two little “doors”, one for the gas bottle, one for storage purpose. Remember to sand every edge, every surface, and to cut the door woods a 3 mm shorter to leave room for the hinges to work and open the doors without difficulty (and without scratching the floor). Put air filters, water pump, sink as well.


  14. Time for the worst: to put the ceiling on. Isolation panels are easy, problematic is to put heavy wooden panels without killing yourselves in the attempt. My suggestion is to use the same thin, elastic wood you used for the sliding door if you want to save yourself an hassle. Still, we opted for the same wood we used for the floor, as we had bullons and screws from the solar panels and windows to hide. So how did we do it? Cut them in advance, considering the size and position of the windows. Cut a panel, put it on, then measure again and THEN cut the following one. To fix them, use metal screws and fit them directly into the structural parts of the van (while the isolation panels will be in all the non-structural ones). To be sure to be firm, we used a crutch: you can decide its height and unless you hit it, it will never let you down 😀
  15. Now, time to build the wall that will divide your living area from the driving area. Yes you need this, otherwise you did all your isolation for nothing. Put your seats in the position that will be mostly used while travelling and consider to leave some space on the rear of your seats, at the bottom, for storage. For example, we put there our spare fuel tank, the tarp, the mosquito net, things you want to have handy in case of need but you don’t want in your living area.

    Take a sturdy wood and make the structures. Then put isolation panels inside the structures, a thin wood panel on one side of it, and one on the other side. Remember to cut the panels for the door first and to leave, again, enough room for the hinges to do their job. Put a lock on both sides of the door so it won’t open while driving and you’ll have extra safety while sleeping. Fill the door side and the wall side (the one that goes against the sliding door) with wood filler.

  16. You’re also going to need more storage. To be precise, you need two of them: one for the electric system, van jacks, booster cables, engine oil / different fluids for the van, all the tools you may need to repair your car, all the stuff you need to make the services (if you make them yourselves like us) and a shelf for your almost empty backpacks; this storage doesn’t need continuous access, so we put it on the rear of the van, beside the shower, and only accessible from the outside; the second storage you’ll need is for daily things, and must be inside: we stored there the food, some pots, dishes etc.
    Build a sturdy structure, as sturdier as you can, and use a good wood for the panels too.

    For the first storage, remember to close the door every time you insert a panel to check the size fits. Put heavy stuff at the bottom (ideally the electric system, we have two batteries that weight 25 kg each, plus the converter, the fuses, the cables, etc, and the car jacks (15 kg each), nothing inflammable, and if you think it will get hot in there, also a couple of fans to keep the batteries cool). Then we had two more layers for the tools, one is the height of a food can, a useful size that will fit lots of things. One last, fourth layer for the backpacks.
    04. Van construction (92)About the inner food storage, this is been a total hassle and now I would do it differently. Our uses the same wall as the outside storage, but also the ceiling and the wall of the van (I wouldn’t make it touch this one anymore, it’s been such an hassle to make it open properly!). Remember also to put a stripe of led lights inside it, so you can see what’s inside for dinner 😀

  17. Almost there! Did you buy your fridge? Good! Leave it overnight connected so you’ll be sure that your electric system can stand it. Once you know it’s okay, put two hooks against the wall and tight it with a stripe when you travel, so it won’t start dancing around scratching all the floor. We put a fire extinguisher on the wall, that sits on the fridge as it’s quite heavy.
  18. The final piece of furniture: the bed! It’s size shall now be certain: it all depends on the room you have left! Use a sturdy wood, cut all the pieces first, PAINT them first. Then screw everything. To make a 195 cm bed we used 26 bed slats, 13 per side, but everything depends on your wood size. Remember to leave 3 mm between each one so they will slide better. I suck at explaining this process but it’s quite easy, we made it in two hours. So I leave you the pictures to study how it’s made, but you can find so many types of sliding, foldable beds on google that it won’t be problematic. We made the structure outside, carried it inside the van with the legs ready, we put it on two empty buckets for support, and screwed the legs while inside the van. You’ll need at least three legs for the part that slides out, and I would say other three for the other. We didn’t put them at the extremities because we had the shower plate there, but use some common sense in where to place them and you’ll be good.
  19. Final, annoying retouches: cover every single part of metal you can see with a thin wood. Moisture on the wood is annoying, but rust on your metal is worse, especially if you can’t figure out it’s there until it’s too late.
  20. Fill the cracks with wood filler and when it’s dry paint like if there’s no tomorrow 😀 (well, no).
    Use a paint that contains fixer as well so you don’t have to do double the job. We used satin colors so no problem, golden oak for furniture and walls (two medium vases) and a dark brown for the floor (so you won’t see too much when it’s dirty).
  21. Put on the led stripes, the curtains structure (we used some metal wire and clothes pegs, super easy), the curtains, put somewhere a carbon dioxide alarm, the switches for the lights and one switch for the inverter (very useful to have it beside the bed), the electric plugs (we have two usb beside the bed, that tell us also the batteries voltage). Buy storage boxes that will fit the space underneath your bed for your clothes. Put a couple of hangers here and there, we have one also behind the passenger seat so if the jackets are wet they can hang out of the living area. Refill your gas bottle and water tank (once again, hooks and stripes), drive around, use the breaks and make quick turns, see if anything moves. You may want to put magnets on your storage doors if they open while driving.
  22. 04. Van construction (63)Buy a foam mattress and memory foam cover (ideally 4” plus 2”). Cut them the right size with a sharp knife. Glue the foam and the memory foam with a spray glue. Put two separate twin size fitted sheets for the mattress, and get a double flat one as blanket. Buy a duvet and have it handy, underneath the bed. Buy pots and food, tools to cook, possibly nothing that would brake (plastic cups, plates, etc). Remove your food from the original package if it takes lots of space and store everything in plastic sealable bags.

    There shall be much more to say about this, but this article would become boring and long. This is just to give you an idea of the massive job that needs to be done, but obviously there’s much more than that. Most depends on your vehicle and on your laboring skills.
    For more specific conversions, there are plenty of youtube videos that will explain better than I can do the electric system, the hydraulic one, the wood properties and potential problems. If you get stuck, simply go in some groups like “Self build campervan”, “self build campervan and real life”, “#vanlife” on facebook and use the search button. If it’s not been asked yet, you can do it.
    We also made a live video showing the van in our facebook page Travelling Around The world: Close to eternity (direct link in homepage on the right side).

    The total budget we spent was 4100$ usd for everything, including pots, mattresses, sheets, fire extinguisher etc. Like, EVERYTHING. But I know people who made it cheaper.
    So guys, good luck and keep pursuing your dreams 😀

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Hi, and welcome again to my blog! Today the topic is a serious one… A list of interesting things you didn’t know about Cuba! Let’s get started:

  1. Salaries: a doctor or a teacher gains 400 – 800 CUP a month (16-35 USD); if Cubans work with tourists, they’re likely to gain at least 10 times this amount, even if they’re just taxi drivers;
  2. 1 CUC corresponds to 1USD and to 24 CUP; for you, as a tourist, it’s nothing, but for the locals it means a lot. So that you are aware of what you are asked for when someone tries to overcharge you, with 1 CUC a Cuban can:
    1. Take the bus 24 times;
    2. Have two cheese pizzas and 1 natural juice at a kiosk, and get 1CUP back as change;
    3. Get your hard drive uploaded with 1TB of movies and tv series, if you know the right people;
    4. Use public toilets at least 4 times (the fair price shall be 25c of a CUC, not one full CUC!)09. La Habana (166), Pena de la Rumbla
  3. Advertising is illegal in Cuba, as it’s considered brain manipulation; the only advertisings are public messages from the government. You can actually watch movies on tv without any sort of boring interruption!
  4. Religion is not learnt in school: one has the right to pick its own religion or not to have one, so it would be unfair to have it where you can’t avoid it.09. La Habana (184), Pena de la Rumbla
  5. There is great influence from African culture here due to the slaves that once emigrated here from Africa; there is a religion where for the first year you always wear a white dress, they still do animal sacrifices, and their dances and drums rituals are a beauty for the eye (every dress with a different color represents one God).09. La Habana (213), Pena de la Rumbla
  6. Even if at first sight it may look like a third world country, the mentality here is super advanced on the battle against homophobia, sexism and racism: one has the right to be whatever he wants, personal freedom is considered fundamental and different races, sex, genders, skin color, etc. are widely accepted and considered an empowerment, a part of the Cuban diversity;
  7. Hospitals are free for everyone (that’s why they ask you for a private insurance to get to Cuba). La Habana counts approx. 30 hospitals!
  8. You may start wondering about the internet connection and how so many Cubans can afford it with the Etecsa price of 1 CUC per hour; well, some people use their mobile phones as tethering for others for 2CUP an hour, with private ETECSA connections;09. La Habana (185), Pena de la Rumbla
  9. How do they check their Airbnb if they can’t be always connected? Our host had it through a foreigner service, where he was receiving all the emails he was getting in the form of a normal text message, and he could accordingly reply back;
  10. When a Cuban is born, he receives a book, a register, that states exactly how much he can get (for free) a month: example, 100 eggs, 20 kg of flour, 10 kg of pork, etc. With this, they go to the supermarkets and get the food.
  11. At the same time, one has to pay a fee to the government; if you own a tobacco plantation, 90% of the product goes to the government; if it’s a coffee one, 50%; if you host people, a fixed amount of 35CUC a month (even if you didn’t host anyone) plus a 10% of your gain.

I hope you enjoyed my article and, if you did, please keep reading my Cuban stories here:

You may also be interested in learning about the Tobacco, Coffee, Rum farms in Viñales here:

09. La Habana (218), Pena de la Rumbla

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VIÑALES – TOBACCO, COFFEE, HONEY and RUM in the Silent Valley

Hi! This post is a focus on the tobacco farm & the coffee plantation and rum and honey factories tour we did in the Valley of Silence, in Vinales, and is therefore part of the Cuba page that you can find here:


We reached the Valley of Silence Mirador (bar and restaurant) with our rented bicycles and we stopped for a while searching for some shade; here we had a chat with the bar lady , who told us there were tours available in the farm opposite to the restaurant; surprisingly, they were for free. You obviously know that in Cuba nothing is really for free… Let’s say it was an unsaid “free donation, or at least buy something”.
I have to say that the tour was so good that we left 6CUC each with joy, as they were well deserved. The guy explained us everything about his cultivation (he had coffee plantation, honey, rum, and lots of local fruits, and we got to taste EVERYTHING).

Vinales – Coffee beans

Coffee tour production process:

  • 1 year for the small plant to grow enough to start making seeds; one fruit contains two coffee beans and a special liquid with plenty of aminoacid.
  • 3-4 years is how long a plant can produce beans for, then it gets cut back to the base and will regrow, cycling on
  • 5 months is how long it takes to the fruit to rip
  • Once you harvest, Robusta beans are red while Arabica are green; Arabica is sweeter than Robusta
  • 45 days is how long the beans are kept in the sun before the harvest in order to dry
  • 30 days is how long they are kept in the sun in commercial factories and mass production
  • 10-12 kg of beans are roasted in the casserole for 45 mins to 1 hour to turn them completely black
  • After the beans are dry, you smash it and let the wind separate the skins from the beans (approx. 45 min)
  • Pilòn is the name of the wood recipient they use to smash the coffee beans

Vinales – Coffee process – Pilon

HONEY (miel de la fleur de café): The farm was also producing honey, where the bees where feeding from the coffee plantations in the mountains nearby. The coffee honey was absolutely astonishing, super yummy, and the particularity of it is that it never crystallize. It also attracts many ants as it’s 100% organic and they don’t use any pesticides in the farms of the Valley.

RUM: the rum the farm produces is called Guayebita del Pinar. It is the only rum with Guayabita fruit in the world (Guava). Interestin facts:

  • Vinales – Guaba rum

    The company was founded in 1892

  • The company now counts 35 dependent workers
  • It takes 5-6 kg of Guava to make 11 liters of rum.
  • Alcohol at 80° is used for the infusion, and counting the evaporation (Angels Share) and the guava juice infused in it, it then end up at 40°.
  • The factory won many gold medals: one in Rome, one in Spain, one in Repubblica de Cuba and two in La Habana
  • 9000-10000 bottles a year are produced, but half of them goes to the government as tax payment; the other half is split between 10-11 families that can use

    Vinales – Cacao

    Vinales – Cacao


    them for personal use.

And I’m not done yet. Being in a farm, they also had different fruit plants, and they made us taste lots of them while explaining us their properties. You are lucky as I’ll share my new, acquired knowledge with you 😉

  • Mango season is in August; they have two different Mango quality, the Mango and the Manga Blanca, which is sweeter
  • Cacao marron (the brown cacao) is sweet on the outside, but it’s suggested that you don’t bite the hard seed as the inside is quite bitter
  • Star fruit we are used to in Europe is mainly used for cocktail garnishes, because it gains acidity during the transportation process; but to be fair, the original fruit is not acid at all
  • They also grow cherries, bananas, oranges, pears
  • Pineapple is a fruit they grow for the popular cocktail Piña colada; one plant can only have one fruit at a time, and it takes 10 months to 1 year to rip
  • Guira fruit is good to heal inflammation in articulations; it is also the fruit used for the maracas musical instrument
  • Guayava blanca is good to eat; the guayava pequeña is the variety used for rum infusions, it’s red inside and sweet

Vinales – Tobacco farm

Vinales – Tobacco farm

Vinales – Tobacco farm

Vinales – Tobacco farm

Vinales – Tobacco farm

After our exhaustive tour we moved to the next recommended place, a tobacco plantation. It was a small one, just 10 minutes from the restaurant (where we left our bicycles). They showed us how they make the cigars, made us try one for free, and they answered to all our questions and took pictures of us. 😉
This was free donation as well, so we left 3CUC each while the Belgian girls bought a pack of 10 cigars as souvenir. For more details about the making process and the cigars farm:

  • The farmer’s name was Orlando
  • Viñales tobacco is the best in the world because the soil has plenty of iron
  • The plantation process happens in winter time, during dry season
  • Once ready, remove the flowers from the plant, leave them to dry for 20 days, then remove the seeds for letting them dry separately for another 3 months
  • The outside part of the cigar is a tobacco leaf
  • The tobacco leaf contains most of the nicotine in the central vein, and it gets removed; therefore, the final cigar has less than 1% nicotine and is less addictive than cigarettes
  • 90% of the tobacco goes to the government as tax, only 10% remains in the farm for finalizing the process
  • The 10% are totally organic and natural, and can last for 4 years; by law, these cigars can’t have a label; the remaining 90% gets treated with products to conserve them up to 10 years, and labelled
  • The farm 10% process: the tobacco leaves dry hanging from the ceiling or on tables for 4 months; they get also sprayed with lime, vanilla and guava flavors to conserve them. Then you roll the cigars and use the honey as natural glue (some use maple instead) and press the cigar by hand with paper for 3 hours. You let it dry for another 20 minutes in the sun, then you cut the end and stick it in honey because consumption
  • Packets are sold with palm leaves as container. Once the cigar started, you can stop smoking it, cut 1 cm after the ashes and store it in a plastic bag in a cellar or fridge
  • 1 cigar is 3CUC and a 10 cigars packet is 30CUC.

Conclusions: the Silent Valley was an highlight of my trip. The non-touristic path we took, venturing in the muddy paths far from the main road, leaded us to a gorgeous valley where the landscapes reminded me a lot about South-East Asia. The guides were knowledgeable, friendly, funny.
Obviously, our experience was good because the guys could speak English well enough to explain, but probably not well enough to make me think it was a commercial place. Obviously, if you go on a bigger farm, you’re not going to have the same confidential experience, nor a personalized one.
That’s why it’s important for you to download, the offline Cuba map, and be independent.
People take commissions for bringing you to a specific farm they have an agreement with, but it’s not written anywhere that this may be the best one.
Especially if you go on a horse tour, those people provide the farm with a good amount of tourists; which means people may only be repeating the same things over and over, and lose their enthusiasm about it. Going there in the wet season (May is ideal, June is an hazard) means less tourists, and speaking a little Spanish can help your understanding and to gain their respect and attention.
Try to go to places where the tour is free and they rely on your donation, more than on tours that include the farm’s visit: you’ll avoid wasting your money in commissions, and you’ll be sure that they’ll be committed to their guide role.

I hope you enjoyed my article and, if you did, please keep reading my Cuban stories here:

Vinales – Tobacco farm


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How to prepare a 1-2 years long road trip

Preparation is the most important process of all. If you screw up there, your trip is likely going to suck or to get seriously expensive. Experience thought me that the troubles you’re going to get involved in are directly proportional to the laziness you put in your preparation process.

The first question you need to ask yourself is: how am I going to travel around? Do I want to backpack and hitchhike, wildcamp, couchsurf, bike, walk, buy a car, a van, a boat, a motorcycle?
The second one is: what do I want to see? Did I get tired of waterfalls and caves, do I love shopping, do I have a specific field I’m interested in whilst travelling?

North and Central

North and Central Americas

The answer to these two questions will be fundamental to determine your travelling gear, and what information you’re going to need.

This explanation is going to be, like I usually travel, just about trips by land and sea, where the only flights involved will be to get in and out of the chosen continent.
This because flights can be expensive (for sure more than local transportation) and we are backpackers, not people with unlimited budget, right?

A good option is to buy a car or a van at your starting point and convert it in a small cozy house where to live in. This way will guarantee you minimal costs in accommodation and food, which are going to be your worst enemy on a long trip.

UntitledSo, first of all there are few things you need to check out, for EACH single country you go in:

  • Personal documents: will your passport be still valid 6 months after the end of your trip? Are your credit cards, driving licence, scuba diving card, health insurance, going to expiry? Will you need an international driving licence?
  •  Vehicle documents: will you be able to transfer your vehicle title to your name and sell it back at the end of the trip? Are you going to be asked to be in the State your car is registered in each year for an inspection on emissions and security checks? Is insurance mandatory? Also bear in mind, if you’re travelling in a federal country, it may be worth to register your car in a different state (laws, registration and insurance rates may vary consistently).
  • Vehicle concerns before to buy it: check tyres, lights, brakes, seat belts, windscreens, gear box and transmission, chain or campbelt, do a test drive, etc. Bring it to a mechanic of your choice and make him check it carefully. Be sure that the vehicle doesn’t have any unpaid fines or debts and it’s not stolen, that the odometer is correct and that the owner is the same person that is selling you the vehicle (you can check all this online, there are usually websites that can tell you everything just providing the plate number). Check also if the vehicle is something you can drive with your licence (number of seats) and if all the certifications needed are up to date (was it a van converted into a camper? It may need a certificate… Is it self-contained? Is the expiry date of the certificate soon enough to lose value? When does the registration expires?).
    Check also if there are oil leaks, fuel efficiency, car history (how many owners? Did it ever had accidents, was the engine rebuilt?), and if the car switches on promptly when the engine is cold.
    Is your plate a good one, with competitive registration rates and an easy and straight forward process to buy, maintain and sell the vehicle (especially if you’re selling it in another state)?
  • Itinenary, what to check for every single country: mobile data and sim card, emergency contact numbers, vaccines, security issues, visas, currency (are atm widely available? is your card circuit widely accepted?), climate (hurricanes? flashfloods? earthquakes? volcanoes?), useful apps for the phone (and remember to download your offline maps!), toll roads and ferries, roads conditions (potholes? different laws? corrupt police? are fuel stations frequent?), car insurance, general cultural differences (tipping? must-do and must-not do? festivals, public holidays?), tap water safety, deadly animals. Hey, it’s not all that bad… There are good things to check as well. Did you check if there’s a national park pass that allows you unlimited travels around…? 😀
  • 1. Attraversamento confine (3)

    Mae Sot – Myawaddy border

  • Backpack, how and why: a backpack is always my favourite option. I have a 80 lt backpack I bought in Czech Republic for real cheap (64€) and so far I never had an issue with it (and it’s now 5 years together, almost full time). I would recommend this if you need it for hitchhiking and wild camping, as you’re going to need space to carry water to cook, food, pots, gas cans and stove, a tent, air mattress, sleeping bag. All things that you won’t need in any other scenario. If you’re going to buy and convert a vehicle at the beginning of your trip, screw it, bring whatever you like, it won’t be on your shoulders… But bear in mind that you’ll buy souvenirs, you know that. The flight back may require an extra luggage.
    In case you’re backpacking around, consider a smaller pack, depending on your height. I’m 1,70 metres, and I suggest 13kg and a 55lt backpack. You don’t need anything that doesn’t fit it, I assure it. A second hand baggage is usually a must, something that contains your electronic devices, a bottle of water, and that can be used for scrolling around the city or in a trekking. I suggest not to take a second backpack, but a bag that can be decent enough to use in clubs and cocktail bars (you don’t want to get turned away at that fancy rooftop bar where you can snap the best pictures of New York right?), that doesn’t look like a camera bag (obviously this would make you a priority target for thiefs), and that you can carry around your other shoulder like a seat belt (a hand handle may be useful as well). Maximum 5 lt, 3 kg.

    Medicines are not always available when you need them; a good trick to save space is to throw all the boxes but to use laces to keep together the medicines with their instructions (this is mandatory to enter some countries), and write with a marker the expiry date on them.
    As medicines vary from country to country, and everyone has their weaknesses and allergies, I can’t talk for everyone. Instead, I created a youtube video where I explain with lots of details the picture on the left, what is each medicine and what is it for, and how many packs you would need for two people (feel free to enlarge the picture and google the names or, if you speak italian, to check )

    Clothes: always follow the summer. Jumpers and jeans are heavy, big, and uncomfortable. Bring 3 tank tops, 2 t-shirts, 1 long sleeve (the ones that keeps your warmth inside will be perfect), 6 underwear, 2 bras, 1 light scarf (foulard), 1 hoodie with zip. Sunscreen, mosquito repellent, sunglasses, a hat, a swimwear, flip flops, 1 trekking shoes (must be GORETEX for 100% waterproof, I suggest Salomon). Travel jacket, North Face has amazing models that can be split in two different jackets, Goretex outside so waterproof and goose feathers inside so warm. 1 pair of shorts, 1 waterproof long trousers, 1 very light long trousers (see picture above) which are good for summertime, entering temples and avoid sandflies (as your legs will be covered but fresh). I also find useful a miniskirt and leggings. That’s IT.

    Backpack wrong setting

    WRONG! You don’t want to have stuff outside of your backpack!

    – Electronics: Reflex camera and gopro with stabilizer are awesome to me. If you buy a drone, be sure to check out where you can use it and if you have to register it in the country you’re in. Mobile phone, a small laptop OR tablet, universal charger.
    – To sleep: a sleeping bag is a useful friend, and a mummie blanket its best ally. Spend good money on it, I paid 150€ for a Ferrino one, 650gr, very compact, and comfortable zone to 3° C. Unflattable pillow.
    – Documents: all the documents mentioned above. Plus: contacts to block your credit cards in case of need, some professional photos of you, copies of your passport, ID, driving licence, proof of your funds, onward travel proofs.
    – What to not miss: playing cards, an external hard drive or memory stick, a spare battery for your camera, a powerbank, at least 3 credit cards (for outside of Europe) with three different circuits, a travel insurance (I use Europassistance, one of the few that allows me to travel and renew it for more than one year, usually others refuse to give you a second year as you shall return to your country of residence for doing that).


    Correct way to pack: heavy, non fragile stuff at the bottom.  A sleeping bag would give it balance to stand up without your help.

    Last tricks:

  • when you go to the airport, throw away your water for the security checks, but not the bottle. Once on the other side, go to the bathroom and fill it again (check online first if it’s drinkable in that country).
  • roll your socks and tshirts and fit them in your shoes; be sure everything is divided in category (light clothes, heavy, etc.) and put in different plastic bags, it will make you easier to protect them and find quickly what you are searching for;
  • enough with the fucking pads and tampons. Use a silicone cup. Less space, cheap, eco-friendly, and you can find your way around any situation with a simple small bottle of water (don’t do as I did in China, don’t wash it with non potable water from the sink if you’re not in a first world country, you may get an infection and that’s not funny).
  • souvenirs: your clothes will rip off, get holes, lose colour, etc. Buy new ones and get rid of the old ones while on the road, at the end of your trip all your new clothes will be your souvenirs; otherwise, buy flags to sew to your backpack, or bracelets; they’re light and small options.
  • learn the word “thank you” in the local language. This is always appreciated by locals, and the good attitude can lead you far.


That’s all for now! Safe trips! 🙂

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Please before reading this post check out this one, in order to have a better understanding of how my mind is changing during my trips: Asia simply came first!


There are heaps of consequences that would need our thoughts and consideration about this matter. All the technology we are dealing with is changing the way we travel, making it easier to organize things. While this is marvellous and makes travelling hassle-free, it’s also coming with a greater price.

First, the average age of travellers is going down, the youngest being 18-19 years old. And even if Australia and New Zealand are safe countries, parents shall be concerned. Not about strangers, but about their own kids being a danger to themselves. Being so far away from parental control at an age still full of doubts and needs is not the best situation ever. Young people are naive and still convinced to be invincible. I’ve seen way too many taking drugs without the minimum caution, without even asking what it was or knowing the dealer. Be fucking careful.

Second, people don’t need interaction anymore. Their app is telling them what to visit, where to camp, how to get there, etc. People don’t need anymore to spend hours reading blogs, as everything they need to know is in the app comments, and is telling them what they need to know in one sentence. However, as I learnt during my trip hitchhiking in Turkey, needing people is a wonderful thing, because it gives you an excuse to interact with strangers and to keep experiencing and learning. We are losing it. Travellers in New Zealand were barely greeting each other, people in hostels were too busy on the wifi to talk. How sad. Please don’t lose the “good chat”.


In all this high-tech environment, you may start to feel lonely. Yep, adrenaline will pump you up at the beginning, but as soon as you’ll have a rainy day you’ll start to feel it. This feeling will be worse if you’re a solo and/or long term traveller. And that’s when you shall use the technology for the good, connecting with your friends at home (obviously, don’t stop fighting for making new friends. But sometimes it’s a no-no day, and you just need to quit the small talk to speak with someone who’ll understand you in a blink of an eye). They will be your strenght, your mental support. You may start to get paranoid about time passing by and people forgetting about you; relax, the important people of your life will stay, and will be there for you.


«Many things had made up our mind, it’s not been an easy and straightforward decision. It’s been more like a slow feeling growing inside us while we were enjoying our trip, the feeling of a lack of something, like to say “yes it’s exciting what we are doing here, but not anymore as it used to be. We are also losing experiences and precious moments with beloved ones home”. All this is coming with a price. Travelling always does, you just have to put this feelings on a scale and see if it’s still worth it. And once the trip was over, those few money we would have earned in Tauranga working for 3 months wouldn’t be worth it. Worthy for us to stay away from our families and friends for longer. Money aren’t everything and can’t buy time. So while we were getting aware of this, our feeling of homesickness had silently grown bigger.»


«What helped us decide was the question: “Why would we go to Tauranga?”. The only answer we could give was “money”. And I don’t want to do things in my life for money, every time I ever took a decision for money is been the wrong one in my life. I thought I had left this far behind me the day I booked my one way ticket for Asia, leaving my job (and a ridicolously well paid one!) for the EXPERIENCE of travelling. If the answer to the big question “Why would we go to Tauranga?” would have been “For the experience”, we would have stayed.»



It’s now a while that I’m hitting the road. With a few months break, it’s a good 5 years. I’m slowly feeling my enthusiasm decreasing… Against my will. The change in the human interactions have for sure its impact, but I’m afraid that the main cause is a change happening within myself (see above the “inner scale”). Problem is, I still have to find a place to call home, so I’ll keep going for a little bit longer. It’s just taking me longer breaks and more comforts, but I’m still there, travelling.


Despite the homesickness growing stronger while travelling, despite the hours spent in fantasies of me reunited with my beloved ones, travelling is a part of myself, and of human nature. It’s a NEED you can’t ignore, it’s hunger for adventures, adrenaline, discovery, self-realization. So always bear in mind: life is always cycling on. When you’ll be far from home, a part of yourself will feel homesick. How and how much depends on you and your roots. It can be in the form of a specific cake or in coffee, it can be in the form of comforts, habits or people. But there will always be something you’ll miss. However, when you’ll be home, a part of you will be craving for the trip. You’ll miss exotic fruits, the encounter of wild animals, the tropical beaches, the rugged mountains, the FREEDOM, the sweet fuck all. Even if you come from one of the most beautiful countries of the planet (trust me on this, I’m from Italy). So bear in mind, no peace of mind, NEVER 😀 You’ll always be thorn apart by the wish to be everywhere at the same time.


I know, this may look like a Captain Obvious post.
But there’s more to consider than just the title. While I was travelling, Nightwish band (my favourite) released their new album, Endless Forms Most Beautiful. Their whole album is a blast when you’re listening to it on a roadtrip, in constant aw. But there’s one part of it that truly changed my perspective about how to approach life, and that I want to repost here:

“We are going to die, and that makes us the lucky ones
Most people are never going to die because they are never going to be born
The potential people who could have been here in my place 
But who will in fact never see the light of day outnumber the sand grains of Sahara
Certainly those unborn ghosts include greater poets than Keats, scientists greater than Newton
We know this because the set of possible people allowed by our DNA 
So massively exceeds the set of actual people
In the teeth of those stupefying odds it is you and I, in our ordinariness, that are here
We privileged few, who won the lottery of birth against all odds
How dare we whine at our inevitable return to that prior state 
From which the vast majority have never stirred?”

….Consider. How. Fucking. Lucky. We. Are.


I’m the third of three. When I was a kid, my mom used to tell us to prevent jealousy: “When a new child is born, a mother’s heart doesn’t split in smaller pieces to make room for the newborn. It grows bigger”.
She never realized how this simple sentence would become one of the pillars of my life philosophy. This can apply to lots of situations in life. All the new friends I now have in Australia and around the world don’t rob the people I have at home of my heart and affection. Travelling is good for your soul.


The most important thing is specifically about Australia and New Zealand.
I noticed in those countries a general attitude of kindness, respect, empathy, acceptance. People are different from one other, but it doesn’t look like an issue here, au contrair, it’s seen as an empowerment for the society. The joy of people celebrating in Oxford Street for the gay marriage referendum, the activities, museums, events to help interaction and appreciation of both Aboriginal and immigrants cultures (South Pacific and Maori at Te Papa Museum, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, etc. festivals in Sydney, to name a few), the kindness of people not treating you as a simple waitress but as an equal human being, the respect of people waiting for you to get off the bus before getting in.
It may look obvious, but the society I come from reminds me it’s not.
One thing we shall learn from our trip is: observe different cultures, get the best out of them, import the very best in your own country and make it part of your self.
“Show me kindness, show me beauty, show me truth”.

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How to become a cocktail bartender

I think time has come for me to explain how to start a bartending career. Mostly because I’m tired of replying to facebook messages like “Hi! I just arrived in Sydney and I noticed you in the fb group XXXX… I want to become a bartender and I’d like to know what to do!”. Basically, most of the people are hoping you to tell them: “Oh hi! Thank God you’re here. Where I work we are searching for a legend like you… Please come in for an interview, I’ll put a good word for you and I’ll teach you everything till you are better than me” (even if you don’t know them). Or they just hope that you can reveal them some dark secret to succeed in life.


Well, unfortunately magic wand for careers has still not been invented.
So here is my step-to-step advise:

  1. Bartending is not the same everywhere on this planet. Don’t expect to win a world award if you are attending to the bar of a small town stucked in the middle of the Italian Alps. Yes I’m pretty sure you can make a fair Aperol Spritz. What about a Sidecar?
    Do you want to become a good bartender? WORK WITH THE BESTS. SO MOVE. Yes, CHANGE COUNTRY if necessary. Learn another language, if necessary.
    Your best options are London, United Kingdom in general, Australia (Sydney or Melbourne) or America (New Orleans, New York, San Francisco). There are others, of course.

  2. Be hardworking, and start from the bottom. No hospitality experience? Okay. Don’t be shy or lazy, your best opportunity is to START AS BARBACK. I know it’s not fancy, you can’t show your friends how amazing you are, but trust me, you won’t be amazing not knowing which bottle to grab when your recipe says “15 ml vanilla liqueur”.
    Barbacking means that you’ll learn how to
    – Not break every glass you touch
    – Use a dishwasher, if your mum did a terrible job with you
    – Polish glasses… Like, THOUSANDS a night
    – To move around the bar without getting killed. It’s a little bit like in a videogame. “Baaacks! BAAAACKS!”. And here is someone pointing at you at bullet speed, three cocktails in his hands, and you’re there, looking at him coming to you like a deer would look to a truck approaching at maximum speed.
    – To recognise the bottles. “Please grab me a bottle of Glendonach 21 years old!”.
    Okay, store room, what was the name? What did he say? Let’s start considering that if you’re not a native speaker of the language name of the spirit, it’s funny how people fuck up. I think it took me three attempts to pronounce Glendonach in a way that a guest could understand. And if only I could get a coin for every time I heard “Maraschino” mispronounced… Furthermore, if you’re a fresh starter, you’re likely not to know that it will be in the whisky section (and if it’s aged 21 years old…). IF you understood the name. Just ask and be annoying if necessary, ask the bartender to show you the empty bottle. Do you want to avoid this? Take the initiative.
    Obviously not with Glendonach 21 years old. But if a bottle is about to end in the rail, get the new one before this happens. Fill up the ice weld before you get asked for it. The bar is your realm as well, and you’re important. I’ve seen bars drawn in DEEP SHIT because of the barback’s lacks. Remember: a team is as strong as its weakest link.

    No, I’m not talking about a 3 hours course. I’m talking about a professional school, usually a month course for the basics, that can easily be around 1500€ or 2200$. I know, it’s a sacrifice, but will get you better chances to get into the industry if you have zero experience. I’d also recommend not to work while you’re studying, as passing the final exams can be tough (and the higher your score, the bigger the chances). It will teach you the classics, the bar basics, the free pouring, some flair, and masterclass of the main spirits and liqueurs, how to recognise the bottles and how to make two-three-five cocktails at the same time.

  4. LEARN YOUR CLASSICS. And if possible, study your recipes in English. Study them in ounces or ml, depending on your country, and keep repeating them to someone, or in front of the mirror, at least once a week. With classics, I mean at least 70 recipes. And don’t pick them from some shitty website for bored housewifes… Try to understand the story behind the recipe, where it got published for the first time, and if possible stick to the original. You’ll see that many are from “Modern American drinks”, a book you can download in pdf for free online. No, I’m not giving you the link, show some fucking initiative! 😀
    Also, the names are always the same… Recipes for mixed drinks (1917), Harry’s ABC of mixing cocktails (1919), Here’s how (1927), The Savoy cocktail book (1930)…
    Obviously some classics have evolved so we don’t follow ALWAYS the original one. And for some of them, it’s also hard to put your hands on the original one, as the origins are not always written in stone. So take this as a generic rule, until you’ll get the necessary knowledge (with the experience, you’ll know what to do).

  5. RESTAURANTS BEFORE COCKTAIL BARS. Before thinking that you already know everything and you’re ready for war, you’d better learn how to make a gin and tonic (if you skipped point 3). And how to make two drinks at the same time. Restaurants can be a valid option to start with because of a magic word called DISPENSE. Also known as DOCKET STATION. This is where new starters usually take the firsts steps, preparing the drinks for the floor without the hassle to have a guest staring at you. Be mindful, dispense can be crazy busy, depending on the restaurant. But you’ll learn not only cocktails, also wines, beers, and coffees, and mocktails. You can fuck up during your preparation as much as you want, at the only condition that your final product gets out of the bar in a decent amount of time and in good condition. If you still need to look at the cocktail specs because you don’t know the recipes, there’s usually a hidden spot where to do it (even to google something, usually in the dishwasher area). If you don’t know where a beer is, you can open every single fridge without a guest getting impatient. If you don’t know how to gather a payment, it’s okay at the beginning.


  6. Don’t be scared to try something new. Even if it means flexibility. Hostessing for a night, or be food runner. There will be people that will try to push you out of the bar, especially at the beginning, when they’ll think you’re still not ready. BE FLEXIBLE BUT FIRM IN YOUR INTENTIONS. If your goal is the bar, be mindful that everything comes with time and sacrifice. Understand your venue’s needs and be a team player. If your host fell sick, someone has to take the ball. If the floor is short of staff, food still has to make it to the table. But at the same time, if it’s always YOU who get picked for those jobs and you end up being in the bar only during the weekends, while the rest of your time you get assigned to other tasks, don’t be scared to remember them that you can’t get any better or any faster without practice. If things don’t move and you feel like you’re not appreciated, and therefore not given the opportunity of growing in the company, while everyone else is, just quit.

  7. Okay, now that you had your dispense training, and your restaurant training, and your extra experiences in making coffees, hosts and floor, you should give it a go and try to get faster and better. We assume that at this stage you know how to balance sweet and sour, you know all your classics, you know how to open-close a bar, and you know how the Cherry Heering bottle looks like. Move out of the dispense and interact with the guests sit on the bar stools. MASTER THE ART OF THE SMALL TALK, if the place is quite. Learn how to GET FAST, TIDY AND PRECISE, if busy.

  8. COCKTAIL BAR: the WAR BEGINS. If you are tired of restaurants and to have to know your vegan and gluten free options to get your tips (even when the bar food is on a different menu, but OKAY), be ready for war.
    First of all, pick the right bar. You don’t want to start with a selection of 400 whisky, 200 gins, and a complicated selection of made in house syrups, tonics, bitters, etc.
    I mean, obviously if you got the job congratulations!
    But in this article we’ll try to go for the smooth way, step by step, so go for a fast paced environment with plenty of classics. Yes, I know you should know your classics already. But how many people have asked you for a Mai Tai, a Zombie, a Fog Cutter, a Brandy Crusta, a Toblerone, a Japanese Slipper, so far?
    I’m pretty sure you’re good with Aperitifs, Espresso Martinis, Digestifs, but there are many options that are not very popular in restaurants, like after dinner cocktails. Often the typical guest of a restaurant is also not as knowledgeable about cocktails and doesn’t know what to order other than what’s in your list. So go for a cocktail bar with possibly not more than 15 wines by the glass, 3-4 beers on tap and 15 beers by the bottle, a hundred bottles of spirits and liqueurs and 10 purees and 10 juices.

  9. SPIRIT KNOWLEDGE. You did well and I’m proud of you. Now you sling drinks like a pro, have the small talk of a comedian, you know who you are. Still, when someone names you “dry wine”, “Oaxaca”, “Akvavit”, “triple distilled”, “shrub”, “sherry cask”, “malted barley”, “Rhum Agricole”, “Pot still”, your eyes are still open wide as the mentioned above deer-against-truck. And your mind starts spinning in “Ozzy man review” style, swearing at your guest the worst things you can possibly imagine.
    Do you remember that masterclass book you had to study in point 3 for your exams? Well, for your knowledge, the exam is STILL ON. And always will be.
    If you still feel like a life change, go work for a distillery. That would be your greatest chance. Do you live in Italy and your only whisky distillery is in the middle of the Alps, and you moved to Rome to learn how to bartend…? Well, books will be your salvation.
    STUDY. Start with Vodka, Gin, Rhum, Tequila. Then go Whisky, Beer, Wine, Cognac, Liqueurs. Then go unusual, go rare. Go Akvavit, go Mezcal, go Mirto di Sardegna, go Falernum.

  10. MIXOLOGY. Don’t study only for spirits. Go for crazy herbs and plants, unusual fruits and flowers. Experiment. There are amazing books in Amazon. Your goal is your guest’s aw, what they would describe as “WEIRD&TASTY&GOOD”. Make shrubs and syrups, bitters and liqueurs, take inspiration (also from other fields, like your grandma’s cuisine, molecular science, chemistry, groups on facebook, trips, etc) but don’t steal recipes. You can create something yours.

I just want to leave you with one simple conclusion: don’t ever think you already reached your goal. No no no. Your goal is always one step forward.
The moment you think you know everything, you lose.
There will always be room to new flavours, new combinations, not everything is been invented yet.
The more I move forward in this field, the more I know, the more I realise how much I don’t know.
So good luck and… Never lose your enthusiasm 😀

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Sydney’s best bars and locals

20170531_163121-e1498713693478-13I have been living in Sydney for more than a year now, and I found myself asked quite often to lead a bunch of people out, seeking for good booze and knowing a shit about it.

Very often I got requests for organizing “cocktail bar crawls”, and questions like “Ah you’re a bartender, sweet, so you KNOW where I can bring my girlfriend to surprise her for our anniversary, right?”, or “Where is the place with the cheapest meal?” or “Where can I find a decent selection of Tequilas?”.

And, surprisingly, I knew the answers. Being a bartender means to me that my days-off are often a leasure&work&training maze, in which I spend nights out hanging out with good friends stalkering the bartenders moves from my stool at the topbar, chewing nuts and drinking cocktails and spirits.

So, accordingly to the requests of people tired to message me seeking for advices and NOT finding their answers on time due to “me-being-on-shift-guys”, here is the list of my favourite places (which is obviously limited by my personal knowledge… I HAVEN’T STEPPED in every single bar in Sydney, and Sydney’s bar scene is constantly evolving, therefore things may change. This list is updated to 29.06.2017, please check on google maps for times, address, etc before jumping straight to those amazing wonderland’s bars).


1-sydney-21-blu-bar-shangrila-11BEST COCKTAIL BARS AND WHY (IN MY OPINION):

  1. BAXTER INN. Well, this doesn’t come as a surprise. As you may know, Sydney loves hidden entrances. After you’ll go down the stairs in what looks like the perfect place to get kidnapped in order to sell your organs to the black market, and open the door… MAGIC! Blues and Jazz atmosphere, the Baxter Inn has been elected BEST BAR IN AUSTRALIA, and SIXTH IN THE WORLD. No visit to Sydney is complete without a stop there. I encourage you, as it’s quite packed all week, not to come in a large group. Aside from an extensive whiskey selection, there is a range of cocktails and craft beers to choose from. Free pretzels are also dished out to thirsty customers. You can ask ANY  CLASSIC international cocktail (no, not Toblerone!) and they’ll make it at its finest perfection. Need ideas? Like gin? Order a Southside for yourself and a Clover Club for your girlfriend… Like whisky? Ask for Penicillin cocktail or a whisky sour or a Mint Julep. Stop ordering Espresso Martinis, that you can have at any shitty place with 10$ happy-hour. Go classic! And live the best buzz of Sydney!
  2. baxter 2

    Baxter Inn

    EAU DE VIE. Darlinghurst never disappoints. Are you planning a night out with your crush…? THIS IS THE PLACE. The best customer service, a charming host, smoked cocktails and special effects, a 500-bottles backbar, and everything is just too perfect for words. If you seek for buzz and classics in a busy athmosphere, go Baxter Inn, if you seek for a LONG list of creative new cocktails to try out, mixology at its finest, elegance and charm, go Eau de Vie.

  3. eau2

    Eau de Vie

    THE BULLETIN PLACE. This shoe-box bar is a hidden gem you should check out. What’s so particular? Any classic, of course, plus a cocktail menu that changes EVERY DAY. Yes, you read it. They only use fresh, seasonal ingredients to make their own cocktails, there’s table service, staff is there to please you and it’s well trained and knowledgeable. Cocktails? Delicious! Also ranked 19th best cocktail bar in the world in 2014 awards.

  4. THE BARBER SHOP. Located in the same courtyard of the Baxter Inn, this is probably the best gin bar of Sydney. Great selection, comfy sofas, and don’t forget to silently and discretely check our the steel door at the end of the bar… And the lavatories. XD
  5. MJøLNER. A new entry into Sydney’s bar scene. Also, a viking inspired bar and restaurant. Food looks delicious (meat focused). If you are looking for a short, boozy cocktail with a good game on the Amari side, Akvavit, perfect balance and attentive mixology, this is your place. You want craft beer? They have it. You want food? They have it. You want whisky selection? They have it. You want to make a toast in front of Thor’s hammer? Well… THEY HAVE IT! 😀
  6. ARCHIE ROSE DISTILLING CO.: feel the need to do something different on a Sunday afternoon? Got spare time, need a drink, but everything opens at 5pm and it’s midday? You love whisky and gin, but don’t know shit about it? That’s the place for you!! In the heart of Rosebery, a VODKA, GIN, WHISKY, VIRGIN-CANE SPIRIT DISTILLERY!
    Archie-rose-distillery-sydney-acme-and-co-Yellowtrace-05Tours are available for booking on their website for 20$. Where else can you find in the world a distillery 20 minutes by bus (309, 310) from the Central Station of a major city like Sydney? Just partecipate to a distillery tour, a whisky or gin blending masterclass, and mingle in the chilled atmosphere of the cocktail bar surrounded by whisky casks. Want more?
    Check out the view from the Mezzanine. Let the staff guide you through their extensive 160 whisky selection, through their spirits flights (tastings), through complex cocktails designed for highlighting the tones, hints and notes of their botanicals gins, of their limited realease of virgin cane spirit (1200 bottles only), of their unaged white rye, and their botanical vodka? Focus on Australian ingredients and a great selection of tonic waters; also, all the syrups and shrubs are homemade, juices are freshly squeezed. Even wattleseed cola, blackstrap ginger, and bush tonic available.
  7. archie-e1498713903909-14

    BOUCHE ON BRIDGE. We couldn’t skip in our list a wine bar. I know, this is a cocktail bar list, but what about…. Spritzers? Everyone loves a good Aperol Spritz. What if we had a place that could combine a great spirit and a great wine together to create the perfect, refreshing aperitif? You’re welcome! My favourite is “Cucumber, snow pea, quinoa vodka, bianca, spritzed pinot gris”. If you prefer red wine, “Pomegranate, orange, port whiskey, vermut, pepperberry, shiraz”.
    Also good food and obviously, focus on vermouth.

  8. PALMER&CO. “I just finished to work, I’d love a drink, but as soon as I sit I may fall asleep”. I’m pretty sure everyone had this feeling at least once. If you’re searching for the right vibe, this underground gem hidden in a small alley two steps away from Wynyard station is what you need. The rustic and old-style design of the place well fits the platters selection at the Chartuterie and the good Negronis. Enjoy! Suitable also for 10 people groups (finally one!)
  9. THE LOBO PLANTATION. RHUM RHUM RHUM. Ok, now that I have your attention, please check out this bar. Seaching for the perfect rhum based cocktail, a good rhum selection, a banana and coconut infused rhum old fashioned? There you go!
    Quite busy during weekends, can be hard to find a spot to seat down. Too packed? Want to go Tiki? Check out Papa Gede‘s, at a 5 minutes walking distance. Cozy and has the best Zombie in town. Feel free to chill in the exotic Tiki atmosphere enjoying your absinthe fountain :). Also the Cuban Place, nearby.
  10. It’s summertime and you’re searching for a nice place to watch the sunset? Ok, I have not one, but THREE options for you! Blu bar on 36, at the Shangri-la hotel, has the best view of all Sydney on the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Unfortunately the best view is in the lounge area, where it’s hard to get a table close to the windows due to long waiting lists; I recommend to check the opening time and to show up 15 minutes before opening. But the view is something you can’t miss. Fireworks every Saturday night approx. 8.30-8.45 pm.20170416_151308-12O Bar and Dining: “our circular space on the 47th floor turns constantly to reveal an ever-unfolding, 360-degree panorama. It’s this city’s most stunning place to enjoy fine food, exquisite cocktails and elevated good times”, recites the website. I couln’t agree more. Also good fine dining option, in the heart of CBD.
    Zephyr bar: that’s a ROOFTOP, OPEN-air bar, so my suggestion is to check it out in summertime, to chill after a hot day. Sunset straight in front of you and Darling Harbour. A focus on vermouth.
  11. SHADY PINES SALOON in Darlinghurst is NOT a place where a vegan wants to spend his Saturday night. Country live music during weekends, easy going athmosphere and ask to try their special spicy rhum. Whisky bar with great selection, still good at making any international (like Baxter Inn). P.s. the door is white, there’s a SMAAAL tag at the entrance with the venue’s name on it.
  12. TIO’S: looking for Tequila and Mezcal? Surry Hills little secret, with the best selection in town! Let the bartenders guide you through a trip to Mexico…
  13. PS40: seasonal cocktails are a bomb, but the highlight of this place in my opinion is their selection of their made in house SODAS, TONICS, GINGER ALE and WATTLESEED COLA. Do you want to appreciate them at their best? Order a Batanga cocktail or a gin and tonic.
  14. MARBLE BAR: in the Hilton Hotel, close to Town Hall, there’s this place where the bartenders are friendly, cocktails good, and the place is just too gorgeous: marble everywhere, with a touch of Renaissance influence. During weekends it turns into a club style place, sometimes with live music. I would recommend it when it’s not that packed, with your fiancée. Zeta bar upstairs is also nice (more expensive tho).
  15. Other places you may want to check out, with no particular notes, are:
    IN CBD: Ramblin’ Rascal Tavern (Focus on cognac), Grandma’s Bar (try the Peanut Butter Colada), The Cuban Place (rhum), Since I left you, The Rook, The Mojo Record Bar, The Stich, The Swinging Cat, The Grasshopper, Nola Smokehouse and Bar, The Grain (whisky bar at the 4season hotel).

    ©Zaira Biagini Photographer

    ©Zaira Biagini Photographer

    Surroundings: The Wild Rover, the Button Bar (Surry Hills), Maybe Frank (italian cocktails), Bloody Mary’s (also breakfast and lunch, for hangovers!), This Must be the Place (Darlinghurst), Tatler (one of the bests, I just couldn’t check it out so far), The World Bar, The Butler (great view) (Kings Cross).
    As you may have noticed, no bars are in North Sydney in my list. Due to my location (Ultimo) I never explored that area much, but let’s also say that on the internet I couldn’t find any place that was worth the trip.


  1. The Morrison Oyster Bar and Restaurant: every Wednesday, from 6 to 7 pm, fresh Pacific Oysters at 1$ each. And everyday 5-7pm happy hour with house wine and spirits at 10$. Oysters are delicious, shucked few minutes before 6pm. This event won the “Best concept event” at the Hospitality Award of Sydney in 2016.
  2. Sokyo: Okay so now we have Gin, Tequila, Mezcal, Rhum, Whisky… We know where to drink anything… But I feel like Sushi tonight! “No worries mate”! The Star Casino in Pyrmont offers the best Sushi you can possibly ask for (of course, everything comes with a price…) and please make yourself a favour and ask for the Saiku Salmon Sashimi. It is the best sashimi you’ll ever try in your life, I guarantee.
    The bar is Umeshu, Sake, and Japanese whisky focused, a must-try. If you feel like having the best day of your life, try Yamazaki 25 years old for 300$ a shot.
  3. Alfredo’s: located in Bulletin place, restaurant upstairs and underground cocktail bar downstairs. The friendly and expert Codris will delight you with Italian Aperitif style nights, with its olive all’ascolana, happy-hour cocktails, and with its knowledge of how to make even a bartender used to drink a lot of booze get out of the place basically on their knees XD
    Codris is simply MY BARTENDER in Sydney, the one that I trust to make my cocktail. The only one I tell “You decide for me” without a single doubt. The best place also for a chat. Beware: it closes at 10.30 if not busy.
  4. The Assembly Bar and Restaurant: cocktails, beers, but most of all, TRUE ITALIAN PIZZA two steps away from Town Hall.
  5. Maloney’s: want to go cheap? Like, really cheap?? The cheapest place in town is here, with 8$ beer jugs, chicken schintzels and fries for 12$. Burgers, pizzas, steaks, a typical Aussie pub with lots of room close to World Square.
  6. Pizza e Birra: pizza again, why? Because Monday night is ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT pizza here! Italian owned, they also offer the bests Negronis and beer buckets.
  7. Frankie’s Pizza is a metalheads oriented place, often with rock or metal live music, and suitable for a bourbon&coke (in a plastic cup, for safety). I never ordered cocktail there as it’s a much less pretentious place then Baxter Inn or Shady Pines (even if it’s still part of the Speakeasy group), but it’s in CBD, it’s open until late night, and… again, Pizza. Not Italian style, tho. 😦
  8. Chinatown noodle restaurant: just feel like a warm chinese tea, hungry as fuck, but broken and still in hangover from yesterday. Too lazy to cook. No problem at all 🙂
    Chinatown noodle is a franchise, there’s one in Haymarket, one in Town Hall, one in Pyrmont, they offer MASSIVE portions and are as cheap as 10$.
  9. Lentils as anything: same feeling as the point above, but even 10$ are too much for your pockets? In Newtown you can have a meal with a gold coin donation at Lentils, with typical indian food (please be considerate in your offer).
  10. Tella Balls: fuck the booze, I’m hangover but it’s Sunday morning, everything is still closed and I feel like milk-shake and breakfast. Like a MASSIVE, GIANT WAFFLE BURGER stucked with icecream, a thousand sweet syrups, sprinkles, chocolate, strawberries and whatever I can imagine. Tella Balls in Dulwich Hill is unique in its genre and won’t disappoint you. Just beware: some plates are meant to be for 2, even 4 people. You can take them away if you don’t finish them… But trust me, one choice per person is more than enough. At 10 minutes walk to the Light Rail last stop.
  11. Max Brenner Chocolate bar: struggling to find a PROPER hot chocolate? A THICK, Italian style one? The first time you asked for a hot chocolate and you had been served that milk jug with two teaspoons of chocolate powder in it your face was failing at hiding your disappointment? Ok, go to Max Brenner (there are many around Central and one close to Wynyard) and ask for an Italian Thick Chocolate. You can ask for white, milk or dark one. You can thank me later with a bank transfer 🙂
  12. Papa’s: in both Haberfield and Bondi, dessert bar, ice-creamery, restaurant, coffee bar, all with authentic Italian food!
  13. Mary’s: “I have an absolute need of unhealthy, deep oiled food…”. But you don’t like Kfc. Mary’s has the best chicken wings in all Sydney, in a rock ‘n’ roll vibe. Burgers, fries, fried chicken, mash and gravy.
  14. Big Poppa’s: Darlinghurst located, upstairs restaurant, downstairs underground bar. Great spirits selection and fastest bartenders ever, if you feel hungry and need some vibe, this buzzling place will make you feel alive. Platters are great, go for the salumi one.
  15. The Ship Inn: hospitality kills you, I know. You can’t get out of your job until 00.30 am, and in CBD due to the lockout laws it’s almost impossible to enter anywhere. Thank God we have the Ship Inn! Last entrance at 01.30 am, HOSPO DISCOUNTS (show your RSA card) and you can get 7.5$ pizzas Aussie style. Try the avocado and basil one, or the Pappa Grande. Cheap beers on tap at 5$ (ask first which ones).
  16. Pancakes on the Rocks: okay, your job SUCKS and you finished at 3am tonight. And you’re starving, I can see it. But Sydney won’t let you starve to death, I promise, because we have Pancakes on the Rocks! Also with salty options, not just a dessert bar, and open 24 hrs.
  17. Indu and Mejico CBD: owned by the same company, they have amazing cocktails and good wine selection while delighting you with Indian and Mexican cuisine. Part of what you spend here will go to villages in need for charity. Not cheap, but a great place if you’re after an easy fine dining.
  18. La Piadina, in Bondi Beach, if you’re missing la piadina romagnola, here it is!
  19. Gelato Messina, just the best icecream in town. Just second to it, Anita (Bondi beach), Rivareno (Surry Hills/Darlinghurst).
  20. GPO, Star Casino and various food courts. Allergies and food preferences. Still don’t know where to eat? Man, I seriously don’t understand what’s wrong with you… If you still didn’t find your match in this list you’re either too spoky, or have allergies or food preferences like veganism, etc. So, the GPO and Star Casino are both a good option for you, as they’re like a shopping centre about… Food. Restaurants, bars, cafès, etc. If you have problems with gluten, or are searching for any kind of allergy aware place, or are vegetarian or vegan, please check Balla’s restaurant at the Star Casino. The head chef is celiac and has a strong focus on it. Otherwise, just know that most of the restaurants usually have at least one vegan and one gluten free option. Please bear in mind to always tell your allergies to your bartender as well… As many cocktails contain eggwhite and some may be smoked with meats.
    If your problem is just to be looking for cheaper and ready-to-eat food, food courts are everywhere.

Want to dance?
I’m not a fan so I’m not the right person to ask to. But I know where my friends usually hang out.
Monday night at Civic, Raggae Music
Tuesday night at the Establishment, Latin Music
Wednesday night at El Topo Basement, DJ sets
Thursday night at Ivy
Friday-Saturday night, just EVERYWHERE
Sunday night, Sash


Eau de Vie cocktail


    If you don’t want to bring your passport around, go to a NSW centre and ask to have an Australian Identity Card. It’s as cheap as 55$ and it’s a cool memory to have with you for life.
  • DON’T GET DRUNK. YOU’LL GET KICKED OUT OF THE VENUE, I PROMISE YOU. THAT’S THE LAW. Your bartender will never risk a 11.000$ fine because you look pretty and you winked at him.
  • BE NICE AND TIP: tips are not mandatory in Australia, however it’s a sign that you appreciated the service and the food and drinks. Be nice to who is handling your food and drinks. They are working late nights for your fun. If they’re turning on the lights and shutting down the music, just thank and leave.
  • Don’t be an asshole and make silly complaints about irrelevant things. Noone really ruined your day. Why would you want to ruin other people’s ones? Someone has not been nice at you? Are you sure you didn’t push it, or asked for it? Even if the answer is yes, remember that hospo people are HUMANS, and can have bad days as well. BE NICE. ALWAYS.

Last but not least, I don’t own all the images in this article. All copyrights are from their owners, I took some of them on google and couldn’t detect exactly the owner. Some others are mine. This list is not meant to be OFFENDING ANYONE. Nothing is a fact, it’s just my irrelevant opinion as a guest. Please enjoy and drink responsably!

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Analisi del 2014

I folletti delle statistiche di hanno preparato un rapporto annuale 2014 per questo blog.

Ecco un estratto:

Una metropolitana a New York trasporta 1 200 persone. Questo blog è stato visto circa 4.600 volte nel 2014. Se fosse una metropolitana di New York, ci vorrebbero circa 4 viaggi per trasportare altrettante persone.

Clicca qui per vedere il rapporto completo.

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10. To feel is something precious. You decided to leave, because you were not satisfied of what you had. Good. The lack of something is always what makes a passion grow, it’s normal. You miss something –> you want it, desire it –> there borns a new passion 😀 You were missing something? Lucky you. Lots of people don’t know how to use their time, because they don’t have passions… They always got soon whatever they wanted, they had nothing to desire. Being able to get everything you want immediately is a bad thing, not a good one. YOU WERE LUCKY, you had to fight to get what you wanted. This turned into strenght, will, patience, determination. In life, whatever is missing is never really “missing”. It always pays back, but you won’t see at the first sight where the balance goes to: it’s now in your personal skills.

9. To leave my country… It was scary but awesome to leave all my problems back, all my routine, all my comfort zone, all my known people. Back. But the sense of freedom you get in return is priceless. The satisfaction to think “bloody hell, I can’t believe that I did this. But yes, in the end, I did. I’m strong enough to survive! To live alone, to travel alone, not to need anybody else. Let’s say that you realise that you’ll always need someone, the “human contact and interaction”, but that you can start from point zero whenever you want. Feeling the power to be the only owner of your life and choices. To be able to change yourself and the world around you. Experiencing the awareness that “YOU OWN THE POWER” (a bit like in Matrix movie) is something that will change the way you’ll face your life from now on. This will never abandon you, that awareness is yours forever.

8. Astonishing landscapes. Mongolia is something not easy to describe, indeed. Wild, with no civilization around you for hundreds of miles. To experience what the true silence means. There is a point where you may think “oh shit, I’m alone in this world. There is no life around me”. And you may feel sick for this lack of energy to absorbe around you. Even the wind stopped blowing. But then, all of a sudden, you notice it: that small, little light of energy under your bare feet. That small, apparently insignificant insect under the ground, or the bird flying high in the sky. There is ALWAYS life surrounding us. Sun itself, earth itself, are forms of life. Feeling part of it may seem hippie, but it’s the simple truth. Even when you’ll feel abandoned and lonely, you will never be. The planet is by your side, always, with a hand on your shoulder. You just have to realise it. YOU ARE ALWAYS CONNECTED, NEVER ALONE.

7. The skies and the oceans. Used to yellow-orange-red sunsets, to figure out for the first time that a sunset can include pink, purple, deep blue, and essentially all the colours of the world, it’s something that can help you release all you bad thoughts. Especially if the experience is shared with special people. And the milky way? Yes, at home in a very clear night, you can (maybe) try to guess its location. But uhmmm, hell, you’re not sure at all. Oh yes, you can always look at that fabolous app on your mobile phone… Screw it. Forget it. Go to a desert, and look up to the sky. The milky way is as evident as your own breath. The air is cold but frizzy like never before. And what about the oceans? We all know how the surface may look like… C’mon, we all have had at least once some ocean wallpaper on our desktop, a picture of a friend as screensaver, or so on. But did you ever feel part of a ocean’s life? That was a marvellous experience to me. I felt like this was not my element, seriously, it was easier for me to jump down from an airplane with a parachute, 4200 mt from the ground, that going down just a ridiculous 15 mt. But still, despite of the anxiety, what I saw was worth it. THE WORLD WILL NEVER STOP TO SURPRISE YOU. But remember: the beauty is in the eye of the beholder…

6. Give up on having any kind of “goal” to reach during your trip. People usually start travelling with a thought like “I want to see THIS, I want to go THERE, I want to, I want to, I want to”. There is no other purpose in travelling, than… TRAVELLING. The simple joy of living, being owner of your life and time, making new experiences, testing yourself, pushing yourself, knowing new people, changing your life, improving who you are. There is a moment when you realise how all temples are the same, how churches are the same, how castles are the same… Of course they are NOT, but seeing another one won’t mean anything to you. You’d rather prefer to spend your day chilling in a park and looking at the people around you, or getting to know better your roommates or the local culture. Because the world is plenty of assholes, but all of them have something to teach you. Especially the lessons you don’t want to learn 🙂

5. There is a specific moment, that punctually arrives if you are open enough to recognize it, where you’ll think “holy crap, this stranger just did something for me that my best friend would never do for me”. And that’s the best thing to notice: THE KINDNESS OF STRANGERS. People who are so generous, so gentle, that they don’t want to hear that damned two words you want to say: thank you. People that don’t need them. Why? Because they don’t expect anything in return. And if you’ll try to ask them “why did you…?”, they’ll smile you back with their broken teeth and say “I have to thank you: you gave me the opportunity to do something good… THANK YOU!!”.

4. And point five leads us here, to point four 😀
In your previous life, you were surrounded by negativity: the social networks are nowaday a nest of envy, anger, and frustration, the news on tv only talks about corruption, murders, and how you don’t have to trust people because they are fucking insane. Everything is about business and money, that will lead you to consumerism with no respect for other people or nature, and to the unreachable stairs of success. Doing something with nothing in return? Oh no, that’s impossible, there must be a mistake… Maybe there was a trick you didn’t notice. I’m sure they will fuck you soon, deerie. Sorry. NOBODY does something to get anything back. Well, point 5 showed us this is WRONG. Of course, bad guys do exist, but there is plenty of amazing people around you, you just don’t know them yet.
And then, during your trip, you start seeing people that don’t need “the something back” to be happy, they don’t need to envy, to get frustrated, to reach the stairs of success. They are poor and they look miserable to you, because of what you see from the outside. But maybe you shall look miserable to them, for what they shall see from the inside, as you were just the reflection of your capitalist society at the beginning of your trip. Everybody is so caring about Ebola virus right now… Oh no, it’s killing so many innocent people! We all have to donate for the research, to stop it! Oh, really? Did you know how many innocents die every year for hunger, and there is a cure for this? But hunger it’s not contagious, so you don’t need to worry about it, right? So pathetic… And that’s the gift you earn in point 4: the awareness that they have been lying to you, all the time. That society wants you to envy, to hate, not to be happy and satisfied, not to realise that you need less than 100 objects (that can be packed in a 60 lt backpack) to live and TO BE HAPPY. Why? Because it’s profitable. And that’s all.

3. Also connected to points 5 and 4, you realise so that people can do amazing or truly horrible things. You knew it also before, I know… But if before you used to think that the average was zero point, and that people could go from -10 to +10, now you know that people can go from -100 to +100. And the difference is that now you know that YOU can go for +100 😀 We have truly few limits, and almost all of them are in our mind. They are not absolut limits, or, better, they are absolut only until you face and break them 🙂

2. And another thing you’ll gain during your trip: EMPATHY. Empathy has many different definitions that encompass a broad range of emotional states, including caring for other people and having a desire to help them; experiencing emotions that match another person’s emotions; discerning what another person is thinking or feeling; and making less distinct the differences between the self and the other.

1. There is NO END TO YOUR JOURNEY. Even if you’ll be back, the seed has been sown. You’ll keep growing, you’ll be searching for the truth wherever you’ll be, you’ll try to fight against the injustices you’ll find in your way (and the badasses ;))
Because what you learned (and learning to think) is like running a bike: once you learned, you never forget how it works. So, do you think you are the expert one and “oh no, not tourists again please, I don’t want to deal with the 15-days holiday tourists again”… Don’t you remember? Everybody has something to teach us. Do you think you saw everything in this world, because you left a footprint in each continent? Don’t you know that what you saw on Monday shall be seen also on Sunday, what you saw in daytime shall be seen also in nighttime, and that what you saw today shall be seen also tomorrow, because there won’t be the same people there? And even if there would still be the same people, they could be in different mood, or anyway they cannot be exactly the same as yesterday. Face the truth: you can’t see the whole world. And it doesn’t matter.  🙂

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10. Motorbike exhaust tattoo on my leg, Vietnam. A needle entered my leg for 5 cm, Gobi desert, Mongolia. A nail, in my right foot, was ripped off, Russia. Bedbugs scars everywhere, Myanmar and Thailand. The tam on my feet, zebra-style, has the shape of my trekking sandals.

Broken hair, sunburnt on my shoulders. Weird chess field on your back, explaining which kind of spaghetti blouse you had in every single day of your trip.

Beauty sometimes is not part of your travel plans.

9. Spending days eating chocolate biscuits and cheese crackers, because there’s nothing hygienic around you.

8. Sleeping in the same room with rats and cockroaches. Eating a dog and having to admit that it taste good. A toilet in China.

7. Scammers. Scammers. Scammers again.

6. The instinct fighting against you, during your first dive. Breathing underwater and calm down are two things hard to conciliate.

5. Having stomach / intestine problems. Puking your soul.

4. Handbag, with credit cards, money, PASSPORT, stolen by three policemen in Vietnam.

3. Missing people. Missing a place to stay, or a point of reference. Not knowing if you’re tired or travelling or you’re not, but for sure knowing that you don’t want to be back to your previous life.

2. Taking the wrong drug, or not dealing well with it.

1. Fearing to have malaria or rabies, or some other deadly disease.


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1. …Leaving an alarm clock ringing for 20 minutes at 7.00 am in a dorm, it’s not really a nice idea. Shut this f*** thing down!

2. …Turning on the light (7.20 am), waking up everybody. You stupid creature, turn on the bathroom light, not your own! Or use your stupid Iphone for a clever purpose, for example using the torch app, as I see you have it!

3. …And prepare your backpack in the evening, when everybody is still awake, so you can sneak out fast and with no noise… Not in the morning, and taking one hour to do it, moving all the plastic bags you have inside!

4. If there’s written “Please don’t throw toilet paper in the wc”, that doesn’t mean that you have to do it, regret it, and so leave everything like this, thinking “the next person who will get there will manage the consequences instead of me”.

5. Don’t use other bed plugs when the other guest is around. Some people are just too shy (and polite) to ask you to move your stuff to charge their laptop, or camera, or phone.

6. If there’s a sign telling you to remove your shoes before entering, do it! People are often walking there with their bare feet, and don’t like to step on the mud you carried inside the hotel.

7. Don’t take 1 hour time to shower, only for chilling, at 8.00 am. Other people may need it before to take a bus, a tour, or start their day as well. And don’t leave your dead hair everywhere in the shower, throw them in the trash bin.

8. Don’t return to the hostel at 3 am, drunk, complaining about the fact that everybody is sleeping and you still want to party. They may kill you. You don’t know for how long they had been waiting for a proper bed.

9. Don’t be unfriendly and silent, or always looking at the internet. It’s a hostel, people get there to know more people, to make new friends. Let’s avoid to create a bad atmosphere, ok?

10. Stop complaining about hygiene. People can arrive from the worst countries, and probably had seen things much worse than that one.

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10 tricks to travel, what you need to know

1. Use couchsurfing. Seriously. It’s an Amazing way to travel, and not just a cheap option. It’s a human experience.

2. Travel slowly. It will be cheaper. Avoid flights, avoid urgent requests for visas. Take your time to check prices in at least 5-10 agencies for public transportation, for excursions, and take your time to ask to 5 hotels how much for a bed or a room.

3. Stay a bit out of the city centres. At walkable distance, let’s say. Food and accomodations are cheaper.

4. Download Mapswithme Pro on your mobile phone. Android 2.1 or more are required, it costs 5 dollars, but it will save you much more money (and time). Because everytime a tuctuc driver will tell you “No, it’s 7 km to the downtown” you can check if it’s true or not, and if it’s not and you want to walk, you’ll know the way.

5. Use hostelbookers or hostelworld or to check some hotels before your arrival. It’s Always good to have some names with you.

6. Use skype and wifi connections, what’s up, viber, email, whatever you want. Forget the rest.

7. Check WIKITRAVEL. It is your guru. It can tell you how much you should pay for that damned ticket you are searching for, or how is the cheapest way to do certain things. Check the rules to get around the country you are in, and what is cheaper (bus, train…?).

8. Check some travelblogs. Travelfish is a good one, OnewayticketPhil as well.

9. Seat61 is a good website to check all trains in the world. Skyscanner is good for flights.

10. Arm yourself with patience, good mood and have fun! 😀 Your enthusiasm is the thing you need the most to travel!

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Budget: what I spent before the departure (prices in Italy)

Purchases Decathlon for the   journey (various and pants)
 €            134,05
08/12/2012 Buy Nikon D5200 in the website   of Dama Srl    €          714,99
08/12/2012 Buy Nikon lens 18-200 in   website Giga of Nicholas de Cristofaro  €          615,50
24/01/2013 Purchase battery pack + filters   + sdhc card in  €            50,00
29/01/2013 Buy Salomon hiking shoes in   Longoni Sport sport  €            99,95
30/01/2013 Sleeping bag Ferrino Lightec   700W in  €          165,89
01/03/2013 Vaccines against tetanus,   typhoid, hepatitis A    €            75,50
15/05/2013 North Face jacket bought in   Sport Time shop    €          199,00
29/05/2013 Vaccines yellow fever,   meningitis    €            24,00
24/06/2013 Cholera vaccines, polio booster    €            26,79
02/08/2013 Cholera vaccine    €            19,85
03/08/2013 Trekking sandals Lizard to   Sport Specialist (3 years warranty)  €            59,96
04/08/2013 Malaria prophylaxis    €          120,00
05/08/2013 Stamp duty for passport    €            40,29
05/08/2013 Health insurance   Europassistance year until 08/31/14  €          507,00
13/08/2013    8 passport photos         €            10,00
  TOTAL    €         2.862,77
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The city where I grew up….

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